Articles - Page 4 of 51 - Small Boats Magazine

12′ Catspaw Dinghy

These plans have evolved from some modifications made by Joel White and WoodenBoat on the design of a Herreshoff Columbia model lapstrake dinghy now in the collection of Mystic Seaport Museum. Plans for the original 11 ½’ version were published in Building the Herreshoff Dinghy by Barry Thomas and were the basis for this 10% enlargement.

Spencer Lincoln

Particulars

Because lapstrake boats are vulnerable to plank damage when used as beach boats on rocky Maine shores, it was decided to go to smooth-planked carvel construction, with the plank thickness increased from 3/8″ to 1/2″. A pivoted centerboard was adapted so that the board could strike bot­tom without harm to itself or the trunk. A single boomless sprit rig gave the boat shorter spars and gave the crew less aggravation.

Black and white line drawing of the Catspaw DinghySpencer Lincoln

Line drawing

The plans for the Catspaw Dinghy are very detailed and include full-size mold patterns which, if used with the building instructions contained in WB Nos. 26, 27, and 28, should make this lovely round-bottomed boat easy to build for an amateur. Full-size patterns for the stem, transom, rudder, and station molds are included with the lines, offsets, con­struction plan, and sail plan. Lofting is not required. If one is determined to build a round-bottomed boat, this could make an ideal first one.

Spencer Lincoln

Profile, body plan, and half breadths and diagonals.

WoodenBoat’s Catspaw Dinghy carries three people in comfort; more can be accommodated if conditions are calm. Two people can carry her for short distances, as in loading on a truck or trailer, or lifting up and down a beach. She’s a good all-around boat, rows easily, sails well, and tracks well when towed. Although we are not enthusiastic about the idea, she could be powered by a small outboard. She is very seaworthy. Check out this installment of our Aboard Small Boats video series to catch the Catspaw Dinghy in action. WB Plan No. 12. $60.00.

Spencer Lincoln

Top view

Additional Reading

Need more detailed steps for building your Catspaw Dinghy? Purchase a print or digital copy of How to Build the Catspaw Dinghy from the WoodenBoat Store. This overview manual includes 32 pages of step-by-step instructions with plenty of detailed steps and black-and-white construction photos.

Plan 12
DESCRIPTION
Hull type: Round-bottomed, transom stern, centerboarder
Rig: Spritsail
Construction: Carvel planked over steamed frames
PERFORMANCE
* Suitable for: Protected waters
* Intended capacity: 3-4
Trailerable: Yes
Propulsion: Sails, oars, outboard
Speed (knots): 2-4
BUILDING DATA
Skill needed: Intermediate
Lofting required: No
* Alternative construction: Lapstrake or strip
Helpful WB issues: WB Nos. 26-28, or monograph
PLANS DATA
No. of sheets: 6
Level of detail: Extreme
Cost per set: $60.00
WB Plan No. 12

Completed Catspaw Dinghy Images

A white Catspaw Dinghy with red trim sits anchored in the water.

Joel White’s Catspaw Dinghy is an adaptation of Nathanael Herreshoff’s Columbia Dinghy.

JESSE performs best under fairly sizable oars — 7½′ or better—and has two rowing stations.

15′ Sea Kayak, Tursiops

Drawn by a professional designer for his own use, Tur­siops is a most personal and versatile craft. Properly handled, she can cross incredibly wild water, find a placid pond, and leave the tranquility untouched.

Tursiops combines moderate speed with comforting behavior.

She’s wide at her rail (28″) most American touring kayaks carry about 24″ beam, and many British boats are 22″ or less. This relatively great beam takes little from her top speed and practically nothing from her touring pace, but it makes Eskimo rolling more difficult. The point is that she won’t capsize easily and if she does go over, “wet rescues” will be easier than for narrow boats. In any case, her beam and nicely shaped ends give her gentle manners there’s no treachery in this kayak.

Construction Profile

Designer Mike Alford describes the criteria that led to Tursiops’ creation: “My goal was to get across four or five miles of open water from the mainland to a string of un­inhabited barrier islands. I needed to carry a fair amount of camera gear and a day’s rations. Any number of boats might seem satisfactory for this purpose, but the catch was that I didn’t want to stake a boat out or worry about tide stranding, vandalism, or motor theft. A sea kayak offered all the mobility and rough-water survivability called for, and had the advantage that it could stow un­obtrusively under a bush.”

The Alford Sea Kayak can be Eskimo rolled, but not easily.

Tursiops’ graceful lines belie her simple construc­tion she has one of the prettiest sheet-plywood hulls we’ve seen. Alford has done a nice job of working the transition from the peaked foredeck to the flat (for secur­ing gear) afterdeck-often an awkward area in similar designs.

Frames and bottom construction drawings.

This friendly kayak might be a nearly perfect “impulse boat.” She’ll ride happily on top of your car waiting to explore a stream running unnoticed under a highway bridge, and she’ll tackle open water with equal enthusi­asm.

Plans for the Alford Sea Kayak include four sheets of drawings that show lines, offsets, construc­tion, profile and deck arrangement, and include patterns and templates. WB Plan No. 85. $45.00.

Plan 85
DESCRIPTION
Hull type: V-bottomed
Construction: Plywood over web frames
PERFORMANCE
* Suitable for: Protected waters
* Intended capacity: 1
Trailerable: Cartop
Propulsion: Double-paddle
Speed (knots): 4-5 1/2
BUILDING DATA
Skill needed: Basic to intermediate
Lofting required: Yes
* Alternative construction: None
PLANS DATA
No. of sheets: 4
Level of detail: Above average Cost per set: $45.00
WB Plan No. 85

CLC Lighthouse Tender Peapod

I grew up with a peapod. It was 6″ long and my father had whittled it, probably before I was born. It was one of the many models he had made that taught me to appreciate the beauty of the forms of boats. I was especially fond of this delicate double-ender, but despite having built real boats for decades now, I never built a peapod. I very much liked the type, but I was unwilling to tackle the challenge of carvel planking. So, when I saw the John Harris–designed Lighthouse Tender Peapod from Chesapeake Light Craft (CLC), I was eager to row and sail this adaptation of the classic type, updated to easy-to-build plywood construction.

Christopher Cunningham

CLC Peapod The plywood adaptation of the peapod has a combination of lapped planks on the upper strakes the edge-joined planks on the lower strakes. The smoother bottom is easier to cover with fiberglass and less vulnerable to abrasion.

John had taken his inspiration from a working peapod built in around 1886 in Washington County, Maine. It was the same peapod I had been drawn to in American Small Sailing Craft. Author Howard Chapelle notes that particular peapod was, when the lines were taken off in 1937, the last of its kind ever built Its type was used for lobstering near Jonesport up to about 1938. John’s Lighthouse Tender Peapod has a shape very similar to the original working boat; the chief differences in the new boat are a sternpost that is nearly vertical rather than raked, and the absence of a keel, which allows his boat to sit upright on the beach.

The boat, built from a kit, is 13′ 5″ long with a beam of 52″, and is a combination of CLC’s LapStitch construction and standard stitch-and-glue. The three upper strakes are LapStitch, with overlapping edges, which cast shadows that highlight the curves of the hull. The lower three strakes are edge-joined, making it easier to apply fiberglass to the bottom and avoid the vulnerability of proud plank laps. The combination of different seam types isn’t as visually jarring as it might sound. I didn’t notice it until I crawled under the boat while it was resting in slings.

Christopher Cunningham

CLC PeapodThe thwarts are joined by plywood side pieces that aren’t intended as benches, but rather as part of a system that stiffens the hull for sailing. A block of flotation foam, painted black, hides in the shadow under the bow seat.

The seating arrangement includes stern sheets, a center thwart, and a seat forward that incorporates a mast partner at both its aft and forward edges. The three seats are made contiguous by narrow extensions that are somewhere between side benches and lodging knees. The combined structure, bolted together, gives the hull the stiffness to resist the torsion created by sailing forces. The plywood pieces are not glued to the hull, so they can all be removed for refinishing when the time comes.

Fixed underneath the seats are blocks of foam for flotation. The foam is painted with a flexible coating that resists chipping and wear. The coating is black and surprisingly inconspicuous in the shadows cast by the seats. The floorboards are fastened to the frames with stainless-steel screws and finishing washers so they too can be removed for maintenance. Aft of the centerboard trunk is an opening in the floorboards for a bilge pump.

Christopher Cunningham

CLC PeapodThe lever that operates the centerboard has loops of bungees to hold it in position. Note the black flotation blocks under the thwart.

The centerboard is braced by the center thwart and extends forward from it with an open slot for the lever that raises and lowers the board. Bungee loops slip over the lever to hold the board in position with some give if it strikes an obstruction while the boat is under sail. The rudder has a kick-up blade with a bolt and a star knob that adjusts the friction that holds the blade down or up. The skeg extends about 6″ abaft of the after stem before it curves upward. It allows the gudgeons to line up vertically, so the rudder is easy to attach while the boat is afloat and is more effective for steering than a rudder that pivots on an angled axis. The rudderstock has a fixed arm extending to starboard for a Norwegian tiller that reaches around the mizzenmast. I’d prefer a removable arm to make the rudder more compact when stowed, though that arrangement is more complex to build and would have to be much heavier. A cord connects the tiller and the arm, providing a very simple, flexible joint, which is kept from getting sloppy by tensioning the cord in a clam cleat at the forward end of the tiller.

Christopher Cunningham

CLC PeapodThe rudder stock has a fixed arm for the attachment of a Norwegian tiller, which works around the mizzen.

The spars are all rectangular in section with rounded corners. They’re tapered to minimize weight and achieve a pleasing appearance. The mainmast is laminated with three pieces of fir, and the mizzen is a single piece of spruce. In the kit they arrive with precut scarfs ready to be glued together. The main is a balance lug sail, loose-footed, and has an area of 73 sq ft. The mizzen is also a balance lugsail with its foot laced to the boom and has an area of 22 sq ft. The Peapod has an optional rig, a cat-rigged balance lug with an area of 79 sq ft.

Christopher Cunningham

CLC PeapodThe Peapod is a nimble boat under oar power and a pleasure to take out for a quick, uncomplicated outing.

 

When I stepped aboard the Peapod while it was afloat just off a cobble beach, its stability was readily apparent. I could lunge over the side and move about with ease. Sitting on the end of the center thwart, I rested my shoulders on the gunwale to look over the rail and still had plenty of support and freeboard. It was easy to imagine pulling a crab trap up over the side. My first task to get ready for sail was to lower the rudder blade. Leaning over stern, wrapped around the mizzen to reach the blade, was a further test of the double-ender’s stability. In a boat with a transom there would be some beam at the stern to support my weight off center, so I was surprised the Peapod didn’t mind having its tail end twisted.

Chesapeake Light Craft

CLC PeapodFor rowing through the lulls, the sails are easily dropped out of the way and the rudder blade retracted to clear the water.

With a fluky wind blowing at 12 knots and gusting to 15, I set out with the full main and mizzen set, just right for the conditions. For stiffer breezes, the first reef is to remove the mizzen and move the main from its forward position aft about 15″to its other step. The second reef is made by pulling the main about 24″ down to the boom in a traditional slab reef, which is made easy by the reefing lines on the luff and leech and three reefpoints. On a reach, the Peapod made 4 3/4 knots in 1-1/2′ wind-driven waves and rolling freighter wakes. The Peapod was quite lively and bobbed like a cork. The bow rose quickly and I never saw any spray, let alone have any come aboard. And I didn’t see any water sloshing up out of the open top of the centerboard trunk.

Chesapeake Light Craft

CLC PeapodThe yawl sail plan offers a total sail area of 95 sq ft.

The bow rounded up smartly with the helm a-lee for tacking, and then slowly crept across the eye of the wind; it didn’t get caught in irons, but I took to backing the main to snap it across. The Peapod did well to windward and in gusts resisted heeling quickly, giving me plenty of time to react by easing the sheet or rounding up.

I only sailed the Peapod solo, and for the gusty conditions I was most comfortable kneeling in the bottom rather than sliding across the center thwart. There was plenty of room for two more people. The full ends would give the additional crew room to move athwartships and shift weight to windward.

Chesapeake Light Craft

CLC PeapodThere is an optional sail plan for a lone 79 sq ft mainsail. With no mizzen in the way, a common tiller can be used.

For rowing, with both sails and spars resting in the hull and the rudder blade cocked up, the Peapod performed well. The retracted rudder barely touched the water so it didn’t drag or interfere with tracking or turning. The skeg gave the boat good directional stability without hindering maneuvering. The boat scooted along at 3 knots with a lazy effort, held 4 knots at an aerobic exercise pace, and did 4-1/2 knots in a short sprint. The Peapod has two rowing stations, one for rowing solo or with two passengers, and the other, about 32″ farther forward, for rowing with a single passenger in the stern. With three men aboard, the hull still shows two-and-a-half strakes above the water. There is plenty of freeboard. Chesapeake light Craft set the capacity at 650 lbs.

Chesapeake Light Craft

CLC PeapodWith three men aboard, the Peapod sits nicely on its lines and has plenty of freeboard.

With the Lighthouse Tender Peapod, Chesapeake Light Craft has brought a modern construction that is easy, inexpensive, and light to a traditional form that isn’t within reach of a beginning boatbuilder or well suited for recreational pursuits. It has the pleasing shape of its predecessor and the simplicity and ease provided by modern construction.

Christopher Cunningham is the editor of Small Boats Magazine.

Lighthouse Tender Peapod Particulars

[table]

Length/13′ 5″

Beam/52″

Hull weight/160 lbs

Draft, rowing/6″
Draft, sailing/30″

Sail area/95 sq ft

Maximum payload/650 lbs

[/table]

 

 

Kits for the Lighthouse Tender Peapod will be available from Chesapeake Light Craft sometime in February, 2020.

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats Magazine readers would enjoy? Please email us!

17′ 1″ Wittholz Catboat

No doubt about it, a catboat has more room for her length than almost any other boat. And here is about the smallest possible catboat you’ll find with real cruising accommodations for two. Inside her cabin, there’s sitting headroom above her two V-berths and a toilet between them, a stove aft on one side, and a sink and icebox aft on the other. Still, her cockpit is huge six or seven adults can be comfortably seated for daysailing. If you’re most interested in seaworthiness, build the version with the self-bailing cockpit which, incidentally, has a big hatch for stowing the outboard auxiliary; if it’s shelter and a backrest you’re after, there’s a deep cockpit option.

Wittholz Catboat plans particulars and line drawings.

Particulars

Options, in fact, abound on these drawings. There’s a plan for a fixed outside ballast keel rather than a center­board; there are drawings for a rabbeted mahogany wale strake at the sheer, a plan for anchor-handling bowsprit and one for the installation of an inboard engine. You can fit her with either of the two rigs that are shown gaff or marconi.

Line drawing of Wittholz Catboat plans inboard profile.

Inboard Profile

Like her smaller sister, Corvus, this 17-footer is designed to be easily and efficiently built. She is set up on her nine sawn frames, then planked and decked with 3/8″ plywood. She’s also designed with trailering in mind her beam was kept under the 8′ limit, she won’t dry out in the sun and then leak when you launch her, and she’s very easy to rig and get underway. She’d be a wonderful boat for taking overland to distant waters.

Line drawings for Wittholz Catboat sheer and body plans.

Sheer and Body Plans

Plans for the Wittholz Catboat come in 11 sheets, including outboard profile, sail plan (with spar and rigging details and bowsprit arrange­ment), lines and offsets (with or without mahogany sheer­strake), construction, keel construction details and plan for open cockpit model. WB Plan No. 48. $90.00.

Line drawing showing arrangements for Wittholz Catboat plans.

Arrangements

 

Plan 48
DESCRIPTION
Hull type: V-bottomed, centerboard (optional keel)
Rig: Gaff or marconi cat
Construction: Plywood planking over sawn frames
Headroom/cabin (between beams): About 4′

PERFORMANCE
* Suitable for: Somewhat protected waters
* Intended capacity: 2-7 daysailing, 2 cruising
Trailerable: Yes
Propulsion: Sail w/auxiliary
Speed (knots): 2-5

BUILDING DATA:
Skill needed: Intermediate
Lofting required: Yes
*Alternative construction: None

PLANS DATA
No. of sheets: 11
Level of detail: Above average
Cost per set: $90.00
WB Plan No. 48

Completed Wittholz Catboat Images

Monte Copeland

The keel version of the catboat has its greatest draft 13-1/2′ back from the stem, so it can be brought fairly close to shore. The bundled boom and gaff have been hiked up by the peak halyard to provide more headroom in the cockpit.

Sheila Harnett

The 220-square-foot sail here is held to the mast by hoops and lashed to the gaff and boom. The plans not using sail track along the boom.

20′ Bangor Packet Rowing Wherry

It’s hard to find plans for a sliding-seat rowing craft that strikes a happy balance between an out-and-out high­ performance craft and a traditional Whitehall-type pulling boat that has been fitted with small outriggers and a seat that slides. To fill this void, WoodenBoat arranged with Joel White to sell the plans for such a “compromise” boat of his design and it’s indeed a beauty.

Line drawings and particulars for the Plans for the Bangor Packet Rowing Wherry.Dave Dillion

Particulars

The Bangor Packet was designed with fun, exercise, and improved stability in mind not to mention classic good looks. With a beam of 2′, she is proportionally wider than the usual shell or single scull, giving her noticeably more stability and allowing the rower to sit lower down inside the boat, rather than on top of it. As you can judge for yourself from looking at the plans, she still has nice long lines for speed, yet with some flare to her sections up forward and a graceful sheer, she is both better-looking and more sea­worthy than the average competition boat.

Profile and bottom view line drawings for Bangor Packet Rowing Wherry.Dave Dillion

Plans

Construction is cold-molded for light weight and strength. The hull is built upside down with three layers of 1/16″ red-cedar veneer glued to each other over a building jig. The stems are of laminated strips of 1/8″ Sitka spruce. A light plywood deck is fitted for seaworthiness, but is removable, being bedded rather than glued to the hull, and attached with oval-headed screws whose heads are left exposed. For cleaning and painting the interior every few years, you simply take off the deck. Weight of the finished hull is 55 pounds; the sliding seat and outrigger assemblies boost the total outfitted weight to about 70 pounds.

Dave Dillion

Plans

The first few boats were built over a trap-type jig made of the usual station molds with 3/4 x l” pine ribbands let into them and spaced about 1 ½” apart. This is still the easiest setup for building one or two boats, but it means that temporary staples have to be driven in abundance to hold each layer in place while the glue dries.

A solid building form is now used; while this is more time-consuming to make, it allows vacuum-bagging of all three layers at one time and eliminates the need for most of the stapling. It greatly decreases the production time. The 9’9″ racing oars really move her along, and there is usually a waiting line at her builder’s float to get aboard and try the fun. Being so close to the water, the feeling of speed is quite extraordinary.

Line drawings for the Bangor Packet Rowing Wherry.Dave Dillion

Line Drawings

Plans for the Bangor Packet Rowing Wherry consist of five sheets, and include lines and offsets, outboard profile and deck plan, construction plan, and full-size loftings of stem and sternposts. WB Plan No. 36. $60.00.

Completed 20′ Bangor Packet Rowing Wherry Image

Lightweight and reasonably seaworthy, the Bangor Packet Rowing Wherry features a sliding seat and outriggers.

 

Candlefish Skiff 13′, 16′, 18′

Other plans for purchase include the Candlefish 16 and the Candlefish 18

Sam Devlin designed the 13′ Candlefish skiff for a woodsman who wanted to haul it to Alaska’s Far North on his truck’s roof rack. That limited the boat’s size, but not its versatility. The hull form was inspired by the pangas that Devlin admired during his stays in Mexico. Like the pangas, the Candlefish has a high bow to cut through sloppy seas and a narrow beam to get the best speed and fuel economy from a small outboard.

Candlefish Particulars

The construction, typical of Devlin boats, is stitch-and-glue plywood. The interior of the hull is braced by three bulkheads. The two amidships support a broad seating area and enclose a voluminous compartment where the fuel tank sits and where gear can be kept dry and safely locked up. The forward bulkhead provides access to more storage and isolates a recessed foredeck from the rest of the boat. You can haul up a muddy anchor, chain, and rode, pile it on the deck, and pour a bucket of water over it, and the mess drains out through scuppers. A plank seat for the helmsman spans the cockpit between two side benches; a half frame underneath it strengthens the aft third of the hull.

Construction

The transom will take an outboard of 6 to 25 hp. With 20-hp at the stern, the Candlefish will speed a solo operator along at over 20 knots, and at 17 knots with a passenger aboard. The boat carves turns smartly and with its narrow beam it banks into them like an airplane. With a load of 1,300 lbs, the Candlefish won’t be moving quite so fast but it will still have over a foot of freeboard even at the lowest point on the sheer.

Open version

For a 13’4″ skiff the Candlefish 13 has more than its fair share of potential. You won’t have any trouble figuring out what it can do for you. If you need a bigger boat, Sam drew up two larger versions: the Candlefish 16 and the Candlefish 18. The Candlefish 16 can be built with an interior like that of the 13, or with just side benches for seating and an open cockpit without the central storage compartment. The Candlefish 18 adds a pair of plywood longitudinal bulkheads to brace the bottom and provide additional enclosed storage compartments. Plans for the Candlefish 13, Candlefish 16 and Candlefish 18 include detailed scaled drawings and offsets for the transom, bulkheads, and planks.

Bridgedeck version

Check out Devlin’s Boatbuilding Manual for More on Stitch-and-Glue Construction

Plan 167, 168, 169
DESCRIPTION
Hull type: Round-bottomed, transom-sterned
Construction: Stitch-and-glue plywood

PERFORMANCE
Suitable for semi-protected waters
Intended capacity: 1-4
Trailerable
Propulsion: Outboard 5–20-hp (13′), up to 30-hp (16′), and up to 70-hp (18′)

BUILDING DATA
Skill needed: Beginner to intermediate
Lofting required: No

PLANS DATA
No. of sheets: 7 (13′), 9 (16′), 10 (18′)
Supplemental information: No
Level of Detail: Above average
Plans Format: Print or Digital
Cost per set: $85 (13′), $85 (16′), $155 (18′)
Related Publications: Devlin’s Boatbuilding Manual

Completed Candlefish Images

The Candlefish has comfortable seating for the family and plenty of freeboard.Thomas Rowley

The Candlefish 13 LADY LOUISE has comfortable seating for the family and plenty of freeboard.

What was designed as a hunting skiff serves as the family's water taxi, getting to shoreside destinations quicker than they could drive to them.Thomas Rowley

What was designed as a hunting skiff serves as the family’s water taxi, getting to shoreside destinations quicker than they could drive to them.

With the Candlefish’s 20-hp outboard at full throttle, Sam Devlin skims smoothly long at over 20 knots.

With the Candlefish’s 20-hp outboard at full throttle, Sam Devlin skims smoothly along at over 20 knots.

15′ Marsh Cat Catboat

Catboat owners tend to be a pretty devoted bunch and will seldom countenance any disparaging remarks on the type. There are some good reasons for their affection. Foot for foot, it would be hard to find a bigger boat than a catboat.

The great beam that provides all that room makes a catboat sail on her feet-having lunch while sail­ing is not such a scramble. For those who enjoy relaxed sailing rather than fiddling with lines, a catboat’s single, self-tending sail will be just the thing. And then there are submerged rocks and ledges to be avoided and, here too, the catboat excels, for with such shallow draft you can usu­ally see an underwater obstruction before there is any threat.

Joel White’s long experience with small catboats shows in the Marsh Cat’s lines. With slightly less beam and a bit more bow overhang than many of her type, she will display good manners to go along with her good looks. Her cold-molded construction results in a light, tight hull that is well suited to trailering.

White’s six sheets of plans leave little guesswork for the beginner, and they include many touches that would make an old salt nod with approval. Since there are no reverse curves in her hull sections, planking veneers should go on without a fuss. This will not be a quick boat to build, but she’ll be long lasting and relatively low in maintenance requirements.

The six-sheet set of plans for the Marsh Cat Catboat includes: lines, full-sized pat­terns (for molds, stem, and expanded transom-no loft­ing needed), construction, sail and spar plans, lumber and fastening list, full-sized hardware drawings, and even directions for making ballast bags. WB Plan No. 95, $90.00.

Click for a Complete Marsh Cat Catboat Profile and Video

Plan 95

DESCRIPTION
Hull type: Round-bottomed, centerboard boat
Rig: Gaff cat
Construction: Cold-molded

PERFORMANCE
* Suitable for: Protected waters
* Intended capacity: 1-5 daysailing
Trailerable: Yes
Propulsion: Sail, oars, outboard

BUILDING DATA
Skill needed: Intermediate
Lofting required: No
* Alternative construction: Carvel, lapstrake, strip

PLANS DATA
No. of sheets: 6
Level of detail: Above average
Cost per set: $90.00
WB Plan No. 95

Completed 15′ Marsh Cat Images

Sailed level, the Marsh Cat has very little weather helm and can clip along at 5 to 6 knots.Phil Maynard

Sailed level, the Marsh Cat has very little weather helm and can clip along at 5 to 6 knots.

With a reef in her 152 sq ft sail for a fresh breeze, LITTLE T's 9" draft allowed her to take a break in some protected but thin water.Kevin MacDonald

With a reef in her 152 sq ft sail for a fresh breeze, LITTLE T’s 9″ draft allowed her to take a break in some protected but thin water.

 

 

 

Maligiaq

The Shrike-R kayak profiled in this issue is unusual among boats. It isn’t designed to go anywhere. It isn’t even meant to stay upright. As a rolling kayak, it’s made to be capsized, intentionally, and be rolled upright by the paddler. I’ve built two Greenland-style skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and the total distance I’ve covered in all the years I’ve paddled them would be measured in yards rather than miles. Their use could really only be measured in rotations. While my interest in rolling a kayak began as a way to recover from a capsize without having to bail out, rolling for the challenge and satisfaction of it began with meeting Maligiaq Padilla, Greenland’s leading national kayaking champion.

Photographs by and from the collection of the author

Maligiaq won the Greenland National Kayak Championship nine times with his first win coming when he was just 16.

Maligiaq was born in 1982 and grew up in Sisimiut, a town above the Arctic Circle on the west coast of Greenland. A great-grandfather on his mother’s side was a seal hunter who lost his life when a seal he had harpooned dragged him and his kayak so violently that his back was broken. Maligiaq’s grandfather, Peter Johnsen, was the last of the kayak hunters in Sisimiut, and kept to the old ways after the other hunters in the area took to outboard skiffs.

In 2008, Maligiaq took part in a Greenland-style kayaking event at Lake Sammamish in Washington. The black kayak in the foreground and the off-white kayak that Maligiaq is stepping over are the two rolling kayaks I built and brought to the event. To the right of Maligiaq are the harpoons I made and to the right of the black kayak is my fabric version of a sealskin float of the type used by Greenland hunters.

John Heath, who was Maligiaq’s host during his visit to the U.S. in the late 1990s, wrote: “When Maligiaq was a small boy, he was riding in a rowboat with his grandfather when his grandfather’s gun accidentally discharged. With his hand badly injured, Peter was unable to row the boat. Even though he was only four years old, Maligiaq managed to row the boat to shore. Maligiaq’s father says that ever since that incident, Maligiaq and Peter Johnsen have been ‘as close as two coats of paint.’”

In 2008, for his demonstration on Washington’s Lake Sammamish, Maligiaq used my rolling kayak, paddle, and throwing stick. I’d made the kayak for travel, so the skin has a long zipper (the white stripe on the starboard bow) and the frame can be taken apart and packed into a ski bag and a duffel.

Peter taught Maligiaq about kayaking and how to hunt from one using a harpoon and a rifle. In 1994, Maligiaq learned to roll a kayak at the age of 12. The following year he entered the Greenland National Kayak Championship and won every event held for his age group. At the age of 15, he was teaching other teenagers in Sisimiut’s kayak club how to roll. In 1998, he competed with the adults in the national championship and as a 16-year-old was the youngest-ever winner. He went on to defend his title as champion eight times in the years that followed.

With the paddle and throwing stick tucked under the deck lines, Maligiaq is setting up to fall backward and roll up with just his hands.

Also in 1998, Maligiaq was invited to Maryland to be a special guest at the Delmarva Paddler’s Retreat, an annual event for North American devotees of the Greenland-style kayak. He brought with him his sealskin-covered kayak as well as his tuiliq—a sealskin paddling jacket. The kayak had been damaged in transit, and while he was able to use it for his demonstrations, it was hooked to one side and couldn’t hold a straight course. Maligiaq spoke very little English at the time, but he had a friend, John Heath, at the retreat who took him under his wing. John, a well-respected authority on traditional kayaks, had met Maligiaq in 1995 on one of his research trips to Greenland. After Delmarva, John drove Maligiaq to his home in Houston, where he stayed with John and his wife, Jessie. At the Southwest Canoe Rendezvous in Huntsville, Texas, Maligiaq demonstrated kayak rolling, with John providing narration.

The two events filled up the week or so that Maligiaq had planned to stay in the U.S., but after the Rendezvous he asked John if he could stay in Houston with him. John agreed and the short visit stretched out to 13 months. John and Maligiaq took road trips to both coasts, visiting kayaking clubs all along the way. During his time in Houston, Maligiaq built a new kayak in the Heaths’ garage.

The Walrus Pull involves securing a rope to the deck lines and leading it under the kayak. The other end of the line has a half-dozen people pulling hard and fast on shore. Here Maligiaq is keeping the kayak from flipping backward and driving him underwater. While this technique is part of the Greenland rolling competition, it was a matter of survival for hunters. It is the very circumstance that took the life of Maligiaq’s great-grandfather.

I was working in Seattle as the editor of Sea Kayaker magazine when John called me. I had struck up a friendship with John in the early 1980s after his son David found me at a 10-day boat show building a two-hole baidarka, which John had documented in 1962 and published in Bark Canoes and Skin Boats of North America. David recognized the frame, put me in touch with his father, and John and I stayed in touch until his passing in 2003. John wanted me to meet Maligiaq and we agreed on a rendezvous at a small lake east of Seattle.

Allunaariaqattaarneq or Qajaasaarneq are rope gymnastics that are included in the Greenland National Kayak Championships. The dozens of maneuvers were developed to provide strength and agility training for kayakers. Here Maligiaq is coaching me through flipping backward around the ropes. Maligiaq showed me another exercise where he sat on the ropes, as if on a swing, and made a full horizontal 360-degree turn without using his hands, lifting one leg after another over the ropes on each side. I tried it and managed to get turned around without falling off. Maligiaq said I was the first person he’d seen outside of Greenland who could do the exercise.

Maligiaq had a cold, but even though he wasn’t feeling well he did his rolling demonstration, with John narrating, seamlessly transitioning from one technique to the next. Each roll was more challenging as he held the paddle in increasingly awkward ways and eventually did rolls without it, using only his hands and then with one hand held against his chest. It was an impressive performance that left a deep impression on me not only for his skills but also how generous he was with his time and willingness to perform for an audience of one while he was not feeling well.

After meeting Maligiaq, I practiced Greenland rolling techniques and began doing my own rolling demonstrations at sea kayak symposiums. When I was invited to the Mediterranean coast of France to demonstrate Greenland kayak construction and rolling techniques, the attendees helped me assemble my take-apart rolling kayak by installing the pegs and lashings. After the canvas skin was slipped over the frame and zipped closed, I did my repertoire of rolls. The kayak sits very low in the water with the aft deck nearly awash, which makes difficult techniques like hand rolling easier.

Maligiaq’s English was still moving toward fluency at that time, and I had the impression that he was also rather shy, so I didn’t pepper him with questions as much as I would have liked and those that I did ask were often answered by John on Maligiaq’s behalf. Maligiaq did have a quick answer when I asked if he’d found any American food he liked: “beef jerky.” It reminded him of dried seal meat.

The balance brace is not a skill tested in the Greenland championship but it was one Maligiaq showed me and after I learned how to do it I demonstrated it here in a borrowed kayak in Brittany. The position is a good way to be stable and relaxed in that point halfway between capsized and upright. Manasse Matheussen, a Greenland hunter and the winner of the 1949 World Kayaking Championship in Denmark, could even sleep in this position. He wouldn’t go hunting with anyone who couldn’t do this on lengthy days of paddling.

After seeing what Maligiaq could do with a kayak, I came to appreciate rolling as more than a means of recovering from a capsize. I’d built a handful of Greenland kayaks as seagoing vessels but I was intrigued by all the variations and the gymnastics rolling required.  I built two new kayaks for rolling, making them shallower and narrower until the second one floated me with the aft deck a fraction of an inch above water level. The difference that made for rolling, especially lay-back rolls, was a game changer. Instead of my putting a lot of effort into raising myself up onto the deck, the stern of the kayak sank and scooped me up.

One of the Greenland championship skills I practiced after meeting Maligiaq is paddling upside down. In competition, points are awarded for the number of meters traveled this way.

I never got anywhere near Maligiaq’s level of skill. He could do a straitjacket roll with his arms crossed over his chest. I peaked at rolls that were several lesser degrees of difficulty. The only thing I could do better than Maligiaq was make a bigger splash when I capsized.

Whenever I came to the end of a rolling demonstration, I would tell the audience that I would conclude with the trick Maligiaq used to finish his demonstrations. After I slipped out of the cockpit I would pay my tribute to him by doing pushups on deck.

Maligiaq visited the Seattle area again in 2008 and 2009 for a Greenland-style kayaking event. As a young man in his mid-20s he no longer seemed shy and had a ready smile and excellent English. In the years since I had last seen him, he had been promoting not only the Greenland kayak arts but also Alaska’s traditional kayaking. Generations of native Alaskans had grown up and lived without the kayaks that had sustained their ancestors for millennia. Maligiaq sought out the elders and brought their knowledge back from the brink with youth classes in 33 schools around the state. Students built more than 200 kayaks in those classes.

During the 2008 event, I asked Maligiaq to have a picture taken with me. He agreed, but only after saying “You’re too tall.” His name means “medium-sized wave” in Greenlandic.

After 10 years in Alaska, Maligiaq—married and the father of a son and a daughter—returned to Greenland in 2020 where he continues to pass on his knowledge of traditional kayaks. One American paddling magazine acknowledged Maligiaq as “perhaps the greatest sea kayaker in the world.” A fellow Greenlander says in his homeland Maligiaq is regarded as an inuktialak, a great human being.

The Shrike Kayaks

The modern sea kayak has evolved far from its roots as the hunting tool of the Inuit. The comfortable cockpit, reassuring stability, and heavy construction of today’s typical touring kayak make for an easy ride, but at no small cost. The first paddle in a light, narrow, V-bottomed West Greenland-style kayak is a revelation. The boat accelerates quickly and easily, it edges and turns willingly, and rolls can be executed with aplomb.

The Shrike line of kayaks from CNC Kayaks is based on measurements taken from an original Inuit Disko Bay kayak now in the collection of the Canadian Museum of Civilization in Ottawa, Canada. Construction of the Shrikes is as simple as it can be, using light plywood, fiberglass, and epoxy to re-create the look and feel of the native boat while retaining the safety offered by solid bulkheads and fiberglass sheathing.

CNC Kayaks

The full-size Shrike offers a roomier cockpit and higher freeboard.

Nick Crowhurst and his son Christopher (CNC stands for Christopher and Nick Crowhurst) have shared a lifelong passion for traditional kayaks and paddling skills. The original Shrike was created by Nick, and the design was later modified by Christopher to answer calls for one version optimized for touring and another ideal for rolling.

The plans and instructions are offered for free through their website and invite builders to first select one of three basic versions, and then fine-tune that design to create a boat that’s an exact fit for the kind of boating they have in mind. The principal options affect the deck and cockpit; all versions have the same hull shape below the waterline, and therefore will have a similar feel on the water.

David Dawson

The Shrike range is built stitch-and-glue, and the detailed instruction manuals and full-sized plans are available at no cost from the designers. I used 3mm okoume plywood and, wanting to keep the weight down, was careful not to overdo the fiberglass and epoxy.

There are three versions. The Shrike is the original Shrike from which the variations were developed and features the Greenland hull with a modern, keyhole cockpit. This boat would be an easy first step into Greenland-style kayaking. The Shrike-Too has what’s come to be known as an ocean cockpit. Much shorter than today’s standard cockpit designs, it keeps the paddler tied to the boat more effectively. Or, with period leather and bone outfitting, the Shrike-Too could be made to look much like its skin-on-frame forebears. And the Shrike-R is designed expressly for practicing rolling. It has a much lower deck than the other two, reducing the volume and weight of the kayak to facilitate rolls, while its wider version of the ocean cockpit allows more upper-body flexibility.

Nick and Christopher don’t stop with these choices. A chart is included suggesting scaled versions of the plans to match the boat to the paddler’s weight. And all three versions can be built with the hull’s side panels trimmed to any of seven heights. Also, the curve in the forward deck can be eased for a snugger fit. Add to that the options of a skeg, a day hatch, and whatever deck rigging is desired, and you’ll have yourself a bespoke watercraft.

David Dawson

Everything about my Shrike-R is minimal. I chose the narrowest side panels, the lowest-profile foredeck, and a deliberately snug cockpit, all with an eye on speed and excellent rolling capability.

I wanted a boat to develop my rolling skills, so I went to the Shrike-R. I was seeking a very minimal boat—deliberately low in the water and snug-fitting for effortless rolling. The chart in the building guide told me that a 92% build would be the best fit for my weight.

The manual is as detailed as any I’ve seen, with step-by-step instructions illustrated with color photos. They are written with the first-time builder in mind, full of tips for the novice. If, for example, you’re unsure about scarfing plywood panels, they detail an easier method: butting panel ends together and applying ’glass tape to each side.

No lofting is required to build a Shrike—full-sized patterns for all parts are provided as a printable PDF file. (For those who can use them, .dwg and .dxf files are also available.) The single PDF was created at 50-percent scale, so the printer needs to double the size, printed at 200 percent. The required paper width is 24″. I went to my local office supply store, which has a printer that can easily do this. The result was a roll of paper 2′ wide and about 22′ long.

Caroline Dawson

It is a squeeze to get into the cockpit of my intentionally compact Shrike-R but the effort pays off—once settled in I instantly feel well connected to the boat.

The kayak is built stitch-and-glue style and starts by transferring the patterns on the printout to 3mm marine-grade plywood. I used okoume because it’s light, available, and less pricey than the alternatives. After the pieces have been cut out, the builder has everything needed to stitch-and-glue the hull together. The deck goes on by gluing it down to light sheer clamps that have been fit inside the assembled hull—the easiest way I know to close-up a plywood kayak.

The building manual says the Shrike can come in at 32 lbs. Mine is a couple of pounds under that, but it is also possibly the smallest Shrike ever made. If care isn’t taken or extra fiberglass is added to make the boat stronger, the weight will go up quickly.

Outfitting can be done to the builder’s preferences, but it is important to maintain a low seating position in boats of this type. A 1″-thick sheet of Minicell or similar foam is all that’s needed. A higher seating position throws off the dynamics of these responsive craft. A block of foam is suggested for a footrest. More Minicell or a commercial back band can be used behind the seat.

My boat took about $650 in materials to build. There are very few commercially available kayaks that compare with the Shrike, but those that do cost around $4,000 to $5,000, and some are heavier.

Caroline Dawson

The Shrike-R’s maneuverability is remarkable. The light weight, narrow beam, and minimal wetted surface all contribute to swift acceleration and rapid, controlled turns.

I deliberately made my Shrike a tight fit. I chose both the lowest side-panel height and the lower profile of the masik, a laminated wood arch that determines the height of the foredeck and reinforces the front of the cockpit. I finished the boat with a coat of marine enamel. Outfitting is Minicell foam for footrest, seat, and backrest.

I put a single hatch in the afterdeck and a drain plug in the front. One cross of bungee in front of the cockpit, and a second behind, and the boat was ready for trials.

Once I had squeezed myself in, my Shrike-R felt very lively on the water. This I expected, having paddled similar boats before. Beyond that, I felt more connected to the boat than any other kayak I’ve been in. And it wasn’t just the tight fit: the smallest movement brought an immediate response in the kayak. The magical mix of light weight, narrow beam, and minimal wetted surface—all in a boat that the paddler truly wears—allows the Shrike to accelerate and turn rapidly. Imagine the way a fish darts when startled. Lift a knee and the Shrike edges immediately, which admittedly takes getting used to, but then the kayak digs in and holds just the right angle to carve a turn.

There is good secondary stability here, despite the anticipation created by the very low initial stability at rest—well, it really doesn’t want to rest. Once under way, the hull’s motion through the water and the repeated, steadying plant of the paddle blades bring stability. Confidence in the boat comes with experience. The low deck on my Shrike-R reduces reserve buoyancy below that of the Shrike and Shrike-Too versions, but even so I’ve never capsized accidentally. Deliberately? It must be hundreds of times.

I wanted a rolling machine, and that’s what I have. There’s no question that if I cannot pull off a roll, it’s me, not the boat. Since working with the Shrike-R, I’ve advanced from the standard and storm rolls I already had down to some of the other Greenland rolling techniques, and most recently I developed a reliable roll with the norsaq, the short wooden spear-throwing stick used by the Inuit. I have my sights on perfecting the hand roll. And will I ever pull off the straitjacket roll, a roll with no paddle and arms crossed over the chest? If I do, it will be in this boat.

The Shrike family of boats isn’t for everyone. But it can’t be beat for the kayaker who wants a sports car of a boat that’s lighter, quicker, and nimbler than the typical production touring boat. The potential builder should understand that getting the most out of a traditional kayak does take time and practice. The strong inputs that become habit to control a heavier, long-keeled sea kayak will prove too much for the agile Shrike. It will feel flighty at first, but as its paddlers learn to drive the boat with finesse, they will also discover that they can maneuver easily and gracefully.

Caroline Dawson

The Shrike-R is the rolling machine I was looking for. I’ve been able to work on and improve techniques I already knew and am mastering new ones. And, while there’s not much internal volume to accommodate gear for camp-cruising, with the Greenland paddle it’s easy to achieve and maintain a good cruising pace.

There are negatives. The seating position is lower than typical of sea kayaks, and some will find this uncomfortable even after taking the time to get used to it. Others may never get used to the wiggly quality of the hull at rest. The Shrike is not the right choice for birdwatching, fishing, or photography. Having one hand, if not both, on the paddle, with a blade in the water, are important elements of stability. The largest variation of the Shrike could be packed for camping, but standard sea kayaks offer much more internal volume. But those who seek performance will come to love the way the Shrike and paddler engage to meet the water. The paddling experience is more fluid, more elemental.

I strongly advise using a Greenland paddle. The Shrike all but demands it: the two are literally made for each other, and sculls, braces, and rolls are all more smoothly and easily executed with the traditional tool. Moreover, once you have developed a good forward stroke with the Greenland paddle, you’ll find that it’s very easy to maintain a quick cruising pace in the Shrike without overstressing arms and shoulders. The Inuit had it right all along.

David Dawson lives in Pennsylvania but stretches his passion for boating up and down the East Coast, paddling and sailing the waters from Maine to Florida. Since retiring in 2012, he has built six kayaks and a sailboat.

Shrike-R Particulars (can be scaled to suit builder preferences)

Length:   17′ 4 7⁄8″
Beam:   21 1⁄2″
Weight:   32 lbs

The Shrike Build Manual is a download available at no charge from CNC Kayaks.

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats readers would enjoy? Please email us your suggestions.

The Friend·Ship Canal Boat

My love for Phil Thiel’s Friend·Ship canalboat began in September 2011 when I read an article by Christopher Cunningham about Phil’s quiet and simple boats (WoodenBoat No. 222). I reread the article multiple times and daydreamed about the day that I could have a floating RV on which my whole family could live aboard for extended lengths of time. Harry Bryan’s article on shanty boats in WoodenBoat No. 224 pushed me into action, and I called Phil to purchase the plans for his Friend·Ship.

Our first call was interesting, as he asked me why I wanted the plans and if I understood the purpose of the design. While Lake Ontario is literally at my back door, its open water is not what the Friend·Ship is meant for. I explained to Phil that the province of Ontario has hundreds of kilometers of canals and rivers and small lakes for which the Friend·Ship would be perfect. Satisfied by my response, Phil sold me a set of plans. They included one page of written instructions, construction specifications, building procedures, and 13 pages composed of measured drawings and joinery details.

I pored over the plans and used the scaled frame drawings as full-sized patterns to build a 23″ model at 1:12 scale to visualize how the boat would go together and how it would look completed. I sent pictures of my model to Phil, and he loved it.

Beth and James Kenney

The plans leave the wheelhouse outfitting up to the builder. The companionway hatch can be raised for easier access to the cabin.

The building procedures for the Friend·Ship were the same as those used for his smaller canal cruisers like the Escargot and L’Ark. The assembled frames are to be erected upside down on a level floor and the hull and sides completed from bottom up to the roof line in that position. The plans are clear and detailed and the construction is uncomplicated with just a few simple curves—one for both the wheelhouse and cabin roofs and one at each end of the hull. At 23′ long, 8′ wide, and 10′ 6″ high, the Friend·Ship is as large as my whole dining room and would need an even larger space to complete the work or turn the hull over.

Phil had calculated that the flip-over weight of the completed hull—without the roof, wheelhouse, and interior structures—would be between 1,000 and 1,400 lbs. My several readings of the plans convinced me that most amateur builders, including myself, could not build the Friend·Ship hull upside down and then roll it upright. Phil told me that he had sold lots of plans, but at that time he knew of no one who had built the Friend·Ship as planned. (A Tennessee-based Friend·Ship builder was able to roll-over his completed hull using slings and chain hoists. In anticipation of the boatbuilding project, he had built a 30′ × 45′ workshop with a 16′ ceiling. —Ed.)

I told Phil that I planned to build the frames, then cut each one into two pieces along a line 3′ above the baseline of the boat’s bottom. I could then build the bottom on a ladder building form which would place the bottom only 4′ above my driveway.  After I finished it with epoxy, ’glass, paint, and rub strips, I could roll the hull upright with roughly half the effort and half the space rolling the whole boat would require. With the hull portion upright, I’d reassemble the frames, top to bottom, and finish the upper half of the boat. Phil gave his approval and wished me success.

Beth and James Kenney

The dining table can be lowered to rest on bench-front cleats to create a double berth. Under the countertop stove, the galley has an open space for a portable cooler.

I also needed to study how I would use the boat. The rivers and canals in my area would be miles from the house, so the boat would live on a trailer. To keep the boat and its projecting sheer guard and roof eaves within the 8′ width limit on the highway, I reduced the overall hull width from the designed beam of 8′ to 7′ 8″. I then designed a flatbed trailer specifically for the Friend·Ship and had it constructed by a local trailer builder while I worked on the boat.

As directed by the instructions, I used spruce 2x4s from the local lumberyard for the framing and 44 sheets of marine plywood: 1⁄2″ for the bottom, 3⁄8″ for the sides, and  1⁄4″ for the cabin and wheelhouse roofs. I bought enough epoxy to coat every surface of the hull both inside and out.

During the winter of 2018, I completed and cut the frames in my basement, and in August 2019 I started construction of the bottom of the hull in my driveway. The ladder building form placed the plywood bottom only 4′ off my driveway.

After completing the hull, including epoxy, fiberglass, paint, and rub strips, I could, with helpful neighbors, flip it right-side up, rejoin the frames, and complete the boat. In August 2021, the completed hull was on its trailer, and I launched it to check for leaks. After spending a year working on steering, power, electrics, wheelhouse, interior finishes, and other details while the hull remained on the stabilized trailer, I launched the fully finished boat, weighing an estimated 2,200 lbs, and made its first test run in August 2022. A small open foredeck allows for sitting, handling mooring lines, and storage of external propane tanks and anchoring gear. A hatch and twin doors with screened vents lead down a ladder to the forward cabin where the single 6′ bunks on either side are curtained off from the main cabin and have storage underneath. Between the bunks there is a 3′ by 4′ area with 6′ standing headroom and space to turn around. Large round windows, port and starboard as specified, provide excellent lighting.

Beth and James Kenney

The forward compartment houses two single berths. The ladder provides access to the foredeck.

The main cabin has a dining table and two benches with storage beneath them, and lowering the tabletop to bench level makes a 6′-long double berth on the port side. The galley on the starboard side has a sink, with countertop on either side of it for a propane stove and meal preparation. Underneath, there is a cabinet for storage and an open space for a large portable cooler. This cabin has over 6′ headroom and two windows on either side which slide open for light and ventilation. I built the sliding windows exactly to the detailed plans and they work very well. They have 1⁄4″ acrylic panes and screens installed on the outside.

In the plans, the head is on the starboard side directly aft of the galley. At the request of the first mate, I moved the front wall of the head forward by 6″ to accommodate the installation of a self-contained composting toilet, which needs a bit more room than a portable toilet requires.

On the port side, aft of the dining area, is a 6′-long double berth with the foot of the bed extended beneath the floor of the wheelhouse. A fixed round window over the head of the bed illuminates the space and provides a view to the outside.

Beth and James Kenney

The foot of the double berth in the stern is tucked under the wheelhouse deck.

A four-step ladder leads from the main cabin up to the wheelhouse, which occupies the back 6′ of the Friend·Ship. The top of the wheelhouse is removable and allows for raising and lowering the boat’s profile for reduced windage when trailering long distances, and ease of wrapping for winter storage. It weighs about 150 lbs, which makes it a task for two or more strong people. In the future, I hope to design a mechanism to handle this job in a more practical manner.

The wheelhouse has two box seats at the transom, one for gasoline storage and the second for safety equipment. Between them, I changed the motor cover into a step/seat allowing access to the swim ladder that’s mounted on the curved transom leading down to the swim platform I added across the stern. The platform is hinged to pivot against the transom when not in use.

The shelf flanking the companionway at the forward end of the wheelhouse has room for navigation instruments. I installed an illuminated compass and video monitor connected to a camera at the bow, which allows the skipper to check the blind spot directly in front of the boat.

The plans leave it up to the builder to make the arrangements at the helm. My steering has a single-cable steering link that snakes under the wheelhouse floor and connects with the motor from the starboard side. On the port side I installed a 100-year-old 36″ wooden steering wheel. I’m only one step away from the wheel and motor controls, even when looking out from the wheelhouse along the starboard side.

Beth and James Kenney

On the starboard side, aft of the galley is a curtained compartment for the head. The ladder leads to the wheelhouse where a storage box serves as a seat. To its right, the cover for the outboard is built with a step to climb over the transom.

On that starboard side, under the wheelhouse floor, I installed the electric panel, with two batteries: one for house power and the second for starting the outboard. This space is accessed by setting aside the ladder to the wheelhouse.

When registering my Friend·Ship, I learned that state regulations require a secondary manual-propulsion system. My solution was to build a 14′-long sculling oar of white ash which is inserted through a hole in the center of the transom just above the floor of the wheelhouse. I keep it stored along the underside of the wheelhouse roof with the handle projecting through a hole in the wall forward and a few inches of the blade extending aft just past the roof. My estimate for the towing weight was 3,500 lbs including the motor, interior fittings, and trailer. I used a six-cylinder Chevrolet van for towing and the boat easily followed, but with only front-wheel drive, I quickly learned it didn’t have the traction to pull the loaded trailer up the launch ramps, so I upgraded to a four-wheel-drive Ram pickup truck, which handles all the demands.

Although the Friend·Ship looks like a large vessel, it is light for its size and about as easy to haul, launch, and retrieve as if it were a much smaller boat.

The plans recommend an outboard of 5 to 10 hp; I installed a 9.8-hp four-stroke with remote controls and a high-thrust propeller. The four-stroke option has proved to be quiet and highly fuel-efficient. At cruising speed with the motor cover in place we can hold conversations in the wheelhouse without raising our voices. A single 3.17 U.S. gallon tank of gasoline provides more than 11 hours of cruising.

Charlene Mitchell

For those who prefer open-air boating, the plans include an option for a folding bimini in lieu of the wheelhouse. The transom ladder and folding swim step are an individual addition.

The 9.8-hp motor can push the Friend·Ship at 5 knots, which is 1 knot under the theoretical hull speed for a 19′ 6″ waterline. Backing off to three-fourths throttle the speed drops to a steady 4 knots. Even reducing to half throttle, we were able to maintain the constant 4 knots. At one-third throttle the boat maintains a miles-eating 3-knot cruising speed. We can run a 10-hour day of cruising on less than a tank of gasoline. I often smile as boats costing 10 times as much fly by, because we will both eventually end up at the same location.

On our first cruise, the Friend·Ship struggled to hold a heading as the stern would slide side to side, requiring helm turns, lock-to-lock, to try to maintain course. Thiel’s smaller barge-hulled canal boats, the Escargot and the JoliBoat, each have a skeg on the centerline, but that element isn’t included in the Friend·Ship plans. While a similar single skeg would have been adequate to give the hull directional stability, I could not easily install a skeg on the centerline with the boat sitting on the trailer, so I designed twin skegs that I could through-bolt to the framing members on either side of the motorwell. The skegs are 7′ long, 1 1⁄2″ thick, and 7 1⁄2″ deep at the stern and 1 1⁄2″ proud of the hull at their forward ends. The skegs work well, provide full control to the helm, and the boat now follows a heading like a train on rails.

Charlene Mitchell

For trailering or storage, the wheelhouse roof is deigned to be lowered. The window sashes are all installed with loose-pin hinges, top and bottom, and can be removed and stowed in the cabin. The posts supporting the aft end of the roof are also demountable.

The Friend·Ship can easily accommodate six to seven family members for day trips and has berths for six for overnight outings. It is a perfect boat for long, leisurely trips on sheltered small lakes, rivers, or canals. I have even used it on Lake Ontario during times of calm or light winds while keeping an eye on the weather.

Building Friend·Ship is well within the abilities of woodworkers with modest abilities, even without a large shop or construction site. My estimated cost was $15,000 CDN ($11,000 USD) including both the trailer and motor. The Friend·Ship is truly a trim and proper little ship that turns heads everywhere we go, both on the road and in the water.

James Kenney of Burlington, Ontario, studied mechanical engineering in college and retired in 1999 from a successful 34-year career as an international marketing manager to open a martial arts school. Now an 8th Dan black belt, he still teaches over 25 hour per week. At the age of 10 he received his first boat, a wooden semi-dory rowboat, which he later converted to sail. The Friend·Ship was James’s seventh completed wooden boat project. Now entering his 80s, he may have one more small-boat project in him (with his first mate’s approval).

Friend·Ship Particulars

Length:  22′ 9″
Beam:  8′
Draft:  9″
Height above waterline:  9′ 9″
Power 5 to 10 hp

Phil Thiel passed away in 2014, and plans for the Friend·Ship are now available from The WoodenBoat Store for $75.

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats readers would enjoy? Please email us your suggestions.

Boatbuilding in the Woods

I should begin with a confession: I am quite ignorant about wooden boats, even about boats in general, but I do love them. For as long as I can remember, I’ve been tying logs together and trying to get on the water in whatever small boat came my way. I had a coastal cruise in mind, but I couldn’t find the boat I wanted for anything close to a price I could afford, so it was clearly time to build one myself.

After reading whatever books about building wooden boats I could get my hands on, I was convinced that I could turn a pile of lumber into a boat with little more than a handsaw and a hammer. I just needed a workshop.

Greg Goodman

Because we camp year-round, we tend to wear out a succession of large tents that we use as our primary shelter, so we ended up spending this summer in our smaller backpacking shelter. It was cozy with both of us and our dog, but with the long days and minimal bugs, it worked quite well. The big tarp overhead was a blessing when some heavy summer rainstorms blew in.

However, my girlfriend Vida and I do seasonal farm or winery work, and our housing is provided only while we are working. In between jobs, we are on the move. I once tried to build an umiak, while in work housing, getting as far as the backbone and a pile of ribs, but couldn’t complete it before we had to move. I used some of the time I wasn’t working to hunt for an affordable workshop. Finding none, I recalled a bit of family land in western Michigan: a 20-acre parcel of woods owned by a loose collection of my relatives, none of whom apparently had ever been to the property. It could be the perfect spot to hide away and build a boat.

So, in June 2023, with work finished up in New England, Vida and I loaded our truck for the move to Michigan. On the way, we made detours to used-tool shops, Craigslist meetups, and woodworking stores, and acquired the tools I thought I would need for an off-grid boat build. When we arrived at the family woodland, a deep roadside ditch and a dense understory blocked the way into the property. We drove farther along the road into the adjoining national forest, parked, pointed ourselves toward the land, and hiked a half-mile through the trail-less woods to the site of our future home and workshop.

Greg Goodman

The shop and workbench are awaiting the next step in the project. It was set up quickly in a simple way, and I didn’t really work out how to organize the space until the real project began. For quite a while I was stuck firmly in the analysis paralysis phase. The delay did give me a chance to see the shop through our first rainstorm and confirm it would stay dry and remain standing in the wind.

It was late summer, and an unbroken canopy spread overhead, letting in little shifting patches of sunshine as the leaves murmured and waved in the breeze. The trees near where we’d parked had trunks barely bigger around than my thigh, but as we drew near to and entered the family property, the trees were much larger, the forest more open. Oaks and maples with trunks often too large to wrap my arms around arched high overhead in a vaulted ceiling of green. Being immersed in a lush landscape of living trees made me realize that whatever wood I built the boat with would originally be taken from a forest somewhere; a precious resource not to be taken for granted. Vida and I stopped at a quiet, open patch of sandy soil surrounded by the forest; it would be the site of our home and my boatshop.

Greg Goodman

The basic shop and workbench came together quickly, and it remained a work-in-progress as things went along. I was continually adding little shelves and dividers to organize tools under the bench, and I kept lengthening it to better accommodate work on longer pieces.

We had spent years living out of tents and in short order set up our camp: a two-person tent, portable charcoal grill and propane camp stove, and a few tiki torches, all under a big green tarp printed with a leafy pattern that blended in with the woods. We dug a little firepit in the sand and I fashioned a rough stand for our water jug, to make pouring from it easier. While Vida organized our things within the living space, I looked for the flattest open spot for the shop, which would be sheltered by a 20′ × 30′ tarp. I wanted to build a simple frame under the tarp to give the covered area enough height to work under. After I’d found the right spot, I went to the local hardware store for lumber while Vida explored our surroundings.

Each of the four back-to-camp walks was made awkward and slow by the bundle of lumber riding on the rolled-up towel that padded my shoulder. I set up a wooden frame to support the tarp and stretched it over the workspace. In the shade beneath it, I could feel the breeze and building heat of the day as I watched the shadows and sunlight dance from the forest floor to within my shop. The shop would be sheltered from the summer storms that would roll in, but in fair weather I’d be free from confining walls.

Greg Goodman

When I stumbled on a photo of Pete Culler’s rowing and sailing sampan design, I knew I was getting very close to the boat I wanted. Its length-to-beam ratio, rocker, and flare of the sides became my starting point. I sketched Pete Culler’s hull, then firmed up the dimensions and shape I wanted for my own design. I left the interior blank, deciding it would be easier to lay out when the hull’s shell was complete and I could see how much space I had to work with.

It had been a busy first day and, as the sky changed colors above the darkening trees, we roasted sweet potatoes in a small fire, cooked some rice and lentils, and opened a bottle of sparkling wine. We let the fire die down while the birdsong and drumming of woodpeckers faded into a quiet evening. As dusk turned to darkness we crawled into our tent, and the sounds of the lively forest night began. There was no wind, but some nocturnal animals were making the leaves rustle, an owl hooted from a perch close by, and coyotes yipped and howled in the distance.

Greg Goodman

Initially I used the strongback as a sawing bench, as I am doing here while ripsawing the boards I glued up for the transoms. The low height seemed easier to work with for longer cuts. In the end I found that a slightly higher level worked better for me, and I switched to using the backside of the workbench where the ground brought me up to a good level.

In the morning, after coffee and oatmeal, we took a walk in the woods with our dog, Turtle, before I made another trip to the hardware store for materials for the boatshop. The walk back was especially awkward carrying 8′-long half-sheets of 1⁄2″ plywood for my workbench. I had them ripped to width at the store so I didn’t have to tackle that chore with my handsaw—a cordless drill was my only power tool. When the shelves were finished, I loaded them with my tools and prepared to get to work on the real project.

There was just one small cause for delay: I hadn’t yet decided which boat to build. I scanned the books I’d brought and skimmed through design catalogs online (my phone had great service at our campsite). I was looking for something easy to build, sleek enough to row all day, short enough that it would not require scarfing every single plank and longitudinal piece, and stable enough to accommodate fishing, a rambunctious dog, and a novice sailor in a breeze. I wanted to do near-shore sail-and-oar cruising and have space to sleep and cook aboard as well as stowage for a couple of weeks’ worth of food and water. I knew I’d found my boat when I stumbled on the many slab-sided scow types. Pram-bowed garveys, sampans, and traditional wooden johnboats all seemed to have the right stuff: johnboats could carry heavy loads, garveys were fast downwind sailers, and sampans rowed well. But the designs I found were either too big or too small, and few had the lapstrake construction I was drawn to.

Greg Goodman

I started beveling the chine and garboard with the drawknife, initially just eyeballing for fairness by looking at the bottom edge compared to the crosspiece of the single mold I used. The long, curving blade meant I could get big sweeping, slicing cuts that removed a lot of material very quickly.

While I had been searching for a design, I had been gathering materials by prowling Craigslist and visiting local sawmills and lumber outlets.

I bought thick stair treads of lovely, clear, yellow pine being sold from the back of an abandoned semi-trailer, white oak boards from a huge local lumber distributor, northern white cedar from a father and son sawing local woods at low cost, and bargain-priced white-pine boards from another local sawyer. Only the stair treads were surfaced on all four sides, so in my growing pile I had a lot of lumber I would have to smooth and plane to thickness by hand.

Greg Goodman

The huge pile of northern white cedar seemed like more than enough to plank the bottom of the boat until I started sorting for clear pieces or those with only small tight knots. Starting to lay them out made it easier to see the boat taking shape.

Eager to begin, I gave up on finding plans and made a simple drawing of the boat I thought would work. The plan and body and profile had just a few lines to them: sheer, chine, and transoms. The boat was simple enough that I didn’t need to loft it. I drew the lines of a 15′ boat with a 5′ beam at 1:12 scale on the top of my workbench, not to take measurements but to visualize the shape and proportions. I mostly fit things to the parts of the boat as I went along.

Greg Goodman

I screwed down a few thin pieces of wood to the workbench to use as stops for the bottom planking while I planed it to the proper thickness. A trigger clamp and a small block of wood on the outside edge were then enough to hold the board securely. I sharpened the jack plane’s blade with a very slight curve on the corners to allow for a smooth final surface without plane marks.

I was ready. I started with the two transoms, which would be glued from my perhaps-too-thick boards of 1 1⁄4″ southern yellow pine. Daunted by my first big rip cuts without power tools, I decided I’d better sharpen my 26″ handsaw. I made a saw vise from a scrap piece of pine and clamped it to my workbench with the saw teeth sticking up just to the gullets. I did my best to sharpen the ripsaw’s chisel-like teeth. I’d done the job half-heartedly before, and the results made it clear that it would take practice to do it properly. But with every little challenge I realized that each day’s work, even if learning how to sharpen a saw, was as much the point as was finishing the project. Every day I worked, I was building a boat, and it didn’t matter if I didn’t finish it or it didn’t float or I didn’t like what I ended up with. It was all part of the experience I was after.

Greg Goodman

I considered attaching the side planks while the boat was upside down, thinking this could make it stiffer before I rolled it over. But I decided that riveting the lap with the garboards in that position would be unnecessarily difficult, and flipped the boat before continuing with the second strake.

As I ripsawed two 16′ pieces of 1″ white oak to make the chine logs, I flipped the pieces over and back again to make sure the kerf followed the lines I’d drawn. I grew frustrated and wondered just how long it was going to take. But in that moment of impatience, it occurred to me that slow progress was acceptable, and could even be pleasant. Every little step in the process, one after another, could take me down the long and winding path I’d chosen. As the saw purred and let fall a flurry of sawdust, each stroke took me along the beautiful grain of that lovely piece of white oak.

But as a wandering mind on a rocky path causes a stumble, the blade wavered from the line. I backed the saw, realigned it, and focused on each little bite the teeth took out of the pencil mark. There was no need to rush to the end of the cut. I took a break to sharpen the saw and got back to my little oaken path that was redolent with a warm, nutty, vanilla aroma.

Greg Goodman

The bottom was primed, and the runners were fitted and bedded in roofing cement. At that point I flipped the boat and was ready to put on the second strake. The low morning sun would sneak in under the tarp edges and illuminate the waiting project.

When I left our camp to pick up stock for the side planking, I expected I’d need to have the boards planed to a finished thickness of 1⁄2″ as that task seemed too great to tackle with hand tools. When I reached the sawyer’s place, he let me clamber about in his dusty barn to look over huge stacks of eastern white pine that had been cut in New Hampshire, somehow landing in a massive stack in this barn in Michigan. Thick joists, fissured and dark with age and draped in cobwebs, served as handholds as I wobbled across the tops of 10′-tall tilting towers of planks. The metal roof radiated a sauna-like heat, and a mix of dust and sweat was soon streaking down my face. Some boards were warped and checked, damaged by too-tight strapping. Others had been cut comically short and seemingly served only to fill and balance a tilting stack. Long after the owner had grown bored and left me to hunt on my own, I found a stack with beautiful, wide, clear boards. I know white pine is looked down on because it is soft and prone to rot, but I’d heard enough budget-minded folks praise its surprising quality as planking stock. The boards were 16′ long, a laborsaving 12″ wide, 3⁄4″ thick, and cheap. I climbed down with each find and eventually had a pile of lovely stock perfect for planks.

Greg Goodman

The simple hinged fingers I made from lumber scraps and nails allowed me to use the trigger clamps to hold the laps together. When parallel, the gap between the fingers was maybe a millimeter smaller than the doubled planks. I used little cardboard pads to make sure they didn’t mar the planking excessively. The roves were mismatched to the rivet size, and wanted to jump off after I snipped the rivets to the right length. It slowed the process, but the end result seemed to be plenty strong.

I carried the boards to the friendly owner and waited while he took them to his thickness planer. When he was finished, he walked me to his shop space to pick up the wood. Chatting with me on the way, he said, “And don’t worry, I made sure to set the planer for a very generous half inch. It’s really an old machine, and doesn’t leave a good finish, but it will be easy to clean up from there.” We got to the wood, I took a look, and wished I had just used the full-thickness boards. The newly planed boards looked like some Lilliputian woodworker had surfaced them with a tiny adze, strolling along, randomly texturing the wood more than achieving a uniform thickness. In my early days of advice-seeking for the project I had asked about thicknessing, or at the very least, surfacing, rough-sawn planking by hand. I was told not to bother, the savings weren’t worth the time. For better or worse, I now had the chance to do some surfacing with a hand plane, on a larger scale than I’d anticipated.

Greg Goodman

After a good bit of priming and painting on the inside, I installed the deckbeams. They were probably way too thick and way too close together, but being pine they were fairly light, and I hate the feel of a flexing deck under foot. I figured that without any plans to rely on for scantlings I would rather go for “definitely rugged” than “maybe adequate.” I have blocking between the beams to accept the bolts to attach the cleats, and a white cedar coaming that will get a white oak rub strip on top at a later date.

It was hard at times to smooth the vast surface of even one side of those rough-planed planks. But as I worked, I learned to keep my plane blade sharp. I started with frequent tearout, even when I tried to focus on the grain direction. But by the last board I was taking big, long strokes, easily slicing the peaks from the jagged surface as the long sole rode smoothly over the rough wood. I saved the final smoothing of all the boards for the end, and the plane took big unbroken gossamer-thin shavings, translucent and dimpled with wavering grain. Working down the rough surface turned out to be a pleasure and a valuable learning experience.

It was time to shape two of those newly smooth planks into garboards. My saw-sharpening had really improved, and after the white oak, the long sweeping curves in the thin white pine were a dream to saw. With each step of the build, I learned how to work efficiently and economically. Quicker than I would have believed, I had scarfed and steamed the chine logs, bent them around the single mold to attach them to the transoms, and hung the first side planks. I was flying along.

Vida Stamey

Moving day! When the time came to leave Michigan and head to Rhode Island, the cart I made to haul out the boat worked surprisingly well for seeming so wobbly. The canvas cover helped to protect the hull from being scratched or filled with debris while being dragged through denser parts of the forest.

I had been pulling the best of the northern-white-cedar boards from my massive pile for the bottom planking then setting them across the chines of the boat, when a yelping, whining bark suddenly echoed through the woods. I saw Turtle bark angrily into the forest and then begin darting frantically through its sparse understory. She ran in a circle and then flung herself to the ground, driving her face into the dirt. I ran over calling her name and she finally came to me, only to take off again wiping her face on the dirt and with her paws. The smell was unbelievable, like someone had thrust a burning tire under my nose. It made my eyes water as she approached. She had been skunked. Vida ran over with a jug of water and a small towel, and we wiped down her face and flushed the burning, nauseating spray out of the dog’s eyes. Just as her barking subsided, and Vida and I could stop yelling back and forth to each other, I saw two people approaching through the woods. Matching brown shirts, guns holstered at their hips, big stars pinned to their chests—two sheriff’s deputies. I can’t imagine what their first impression was, after they watched me running around shirtless, screaming, chasing a crazed dog.

Vida Stamey

I cleared this road through the woods for access to campsites I was clearing for a campground project. It made for a great sunny space to work on boat parts. I turned a simple firewood rack I’d made into a sort of shaving bench and used it to make the oars. The looms were thick enough for me to sit on while I used the drawknife to shape them.

They told me that a local hunter monitoring his game camera had called the sheriff’s department to report seeing me drive into the national forest, day after day, park my truck, unload a stack of wood, and walk off into the trees. The deputies sent to investigate were clearly caught off guard. A boatshop in the woods was not what they’d thought they would find. Evidently aware they were approaching private land, they’d stopped right at the property line, finding it as I had done, with a smartphone navigation app that shows lot boundaries. I welcomed them across the imaginary line that served as our threshold, and they crossed into our campsite. Turtle settled down, I put a shirt on, and hoped they wouldn’t notice my bare feet, black from the dirt-floored shop space. The deputies were quite intrigued by the project, one of them being a member of the marine unit of their department, and were glad to have a little tour of the shop and boat. We all laughed a bit about the situation, and before they left, they assured me that my truck was parked legally and out of anyone’s way. We spent the rest of the day trying to wash the stink from Turtle, wondering what our little tent would smell like with her in it.

Greg Goodman

Another move: this time leaving Rhode Island for North Carolina. Every time we loaded the boat, we got a little better at getting it on and off the too-high trailer that was the only style available for one-way moves and had the benefit of providing space for tools and materials below the boat.

With the campsite at peace again, the slow work of ripping, jointing, and surfacing the northern white cedar for the bottom planking was an absolute joy. Greg Rössel, author of Building Small Boats, describes cedar, “It is very decay resistant; stands up to abrasion very well; has low shrinkage; resists puncture; and is sinuous, pliable, and tougher than a boiled owl. It can be scarfed to get desired lengths.” The shorter pieces for a cross-planked bottom wouldn’t require scarfing for length, so I had only its best qualities to enjoy. The easy sawing, fragrant shavings, and glass-smooth finish from a sharp plane made the wood a pleasure to work with. Despite its workability, my jointing was less than perfect, and I had a few planks that were not well-fitted across their full length. This was a concern, as I was planning on tight-seamed bottom planking, without goop or caulking to keep the water out. But when the time came to plank the bottom, the cedar’s softness let the planks pull snugly against one another and made it look like I’d done a perfect job. When I had finished prepping all the planks, I had gained far more practice with the planes and saw than I’d expected: it took about 45 planks to cover the bottom.

Before the newly fashioned bottom planks could be fastened in place, I had to plane the unbeveled chine logs and garboards. I’d left them square, thinking I’d have better luck getting the bevels right when I had some bottom planks ready to lay across the span to check for a good fit.

Greg Goodman

The storage unit in North Carolina was a bit tight for working on the boat, but it was great to have a place to leave it and return to resume work. Not owning a trailer, being camped on public land, and regularly moving meant we couldn’t work on the boat where we were staying as we had done in Michigan.

I did the first bit of heavy stock removal with my drawknife, which peeled away long, thick curls of wood that crinkled into spiral sculptures around my feet. It was good fun, and I was excited by the fast progress, but to finish with a fair surface I needed to use my jack plane. The plane sliced long twin ribbons of oak and pine, and the wavy surface was quickly flattening. I was close to finishing the beveling when the plane hung up slightly, though it didn’t feel like grain tearing. I pushed through and the plane left behind a long oval of brilliant bronze in the middle of the cut. The sharp steel blade had sliced through one of the bronze ring nails holding the garboard to the chine. I was clearly getting better at sharpening, but I’d driven in the nails too close to where the bottom would meet the chine. Many of them were going to be exposed if I continued planing. If I left a little of the chine log unbeveled, I could save myself from cutting into the nail-filled chine and still have a wide enough landing for the bottom planking. Despite the ease with which the plane had sliced through the one nail, it would be foolish to keep forcing the blade into more of them, and I switched to the Shinto rasp. Even though the hacksaw blades form which it’s made can cut metal, it otherwise is not as well suited to the job as a plane, and the beveling took much longer than I’d hoped. Finally, I smoothed the rough surface left by the rasp with a sanding board and was ready to attach the bottom planking.

Greg Goodman

Our last campsite before launching was on the White Oak River in North Carolina. Having the launch site right next to the tent kept me extra motivated as I worked on the finishing touches to the boat. Other visitors to the river were quite interested and excited to see a wooden boat being built and launched.

I always tried to finish up the day’s work just as I started to tire and grow impatient; continuing would be counterproductive. Vida and I would head off somewhere in the area for a walk with Turtle. Within a 20-minute drive we had lakefront sand dunes, a winding riverside trail, and a little lake warm enough for taking a short dip. Often, we’d use an outing like that to stop at a local roadside spring and fill up our water jugs and buy fresh eggs that we could keep without refrigeration. Between the fresh eggs, sprouts we always had going in camp, and the fresh loaves of bread I baked in our Dutch oven, we ate well indeed. There was a farmers’ market not far away, and over the summer we bought many baskets of berries and peaches and apricots, as well as local meat and vegetables. When folks started to notice we were regulars at the market, someone finally asked what we were up to, guessing before I could answer, that we were traveling artists. Maybe so.

For a while, building went smoothly. The bottom planking fit well and a few light passes with the jointer plane eliminated the small steps from plank to plank where I hadn’t gotten the thickness quite right. I used more ring nails and a layer of bedding compound where they attached to the chine. Vida joined me for painting the bottom, and the boat was quickly ready to flip. Flipping the hull right-side up wasn’t as hard as I had expected, though I did resort to a wooden frame and some rope and pulleys to hoist and rotate the surprisingly heavy hull.

Greg Goodman

The day before launching I finally got the sailing rig set up, and with a gentle breeze in camp could get a feel for how it would work. The pack raft in the background has been my tender on a few boats now.

With the bottom done and the boat right-side up, I turned to the remaining side planks. The wide boards meant only two strakes were needed. I made a dozen simple planking clamps to extend the reach of my trigger clamps to close the laps between the garboards and the sheer planks. They worked very well and held the planks firmly together. I had never installed a copper rivet and rove before, but after I watched a video about riveting on my phone, it made the process a total non-event. A straight line of shining copper rivets and roves, pressed lightly into the planking, advanced along the lapped joint, replacing the crude clamps. The garboards and sheer planks were straight along the edge where they met and ran parallel with each other offset by the 1″ lap width, so bevels were not necessary. I just had to cut gains to bring the plank ends together on the transoms, which I did using a metal guide that held my 1″ chisel, essentially turning it into a little shoulder plane, perfect for the task at hand.

Things now came together quickly. The dirt floor of the shop was covered in wood shavings and sawdust; most of my lumber pile had disappeared from the stack and become part of the boat.

Greg Goodman

Launch day! It didn’t take much of an incline (though it looks gentler than it was) to make the quite-heavy boat unmanageable. Taking a turn of rope around the tree kept the boat’s downhill motion under control.

I enlisted Vida’s help again for painting on primer, while I made and fit the nine frames on each side. I found some cheap pine for the deckbeams, and rough-sawn western red-cedar fence pickets that I would surface and use for the decks.

I had started this project crawling through every task. Every tool to sharpen, every stroke of the plane, every big saw cut, they all were slow, challenging, and generally ended with barely satisfactory results. Now I turned the rough-sawn wobbly-edged fence pickets into dead-flat, straight-sided pieces of decking with less effort and time than I had put into my crude 2×4-and-plywood workbench just a month prior.

With our funds now running low, Vida and I had to work again. It seemed that the boat was nearly finished, but we had to leave the camp and find a new place closer to potential employment. I had assumed we’d load the boat on a dolly and haul it through the woods, but I had grossly underestimated its weight. As I lowered it onto the dolly, it almost instantly fell to the side, bending the wheel hubs and the brackets that held the wheels to the frame. It was back to the truck and out to a hardware store, where I bought wheelbarrow wheels and threaded rod for an axle. With some shimmying and sawing I turned the strongback into a trailer, with a 2×4 up front for me to lean into while dragging and shoving the boat along. The trailer was ungainly and wobbly and carrying the excessively heavy burden of the boat and strongback. I can’t say exactly how long it took to get the boat out to the road where we had parked. I tried not to keep track of time. It was only a 15- to 20-minute walk on foot, even when I hauled materials in. But the width of the boat made the sparsely wooded forest seem suddenly dense, and the wheels couldn’t roll over more than a small stick or hummock. The nearly straight path we’d worn from truck to campsite was no help. I meandered along an absurdly circuitous route through the forest. I often walked ahead to check spacing between trees, backed up, and cleared brush. All the while I was smiling thinking of the overland haul as the boat’s first journey.

Vida Stamey

Lightly laden, the boat bounded upriver against the slight current with ease. I was used to rowing much sleeker craft and wasn’t prepared for how well a boxy boat can move through the water.

Vida and I drove back to New England with the boat in tow on top of a rented utility trailer. We settled into another camp at an abandoned and extremely overgrown Christmas tree farm in Rhode Island. I worked clearing roads and campsites, and Vida found a job at a local vegetable farm. I was allowed to clear some space in a wooded area of the farm for my new boatshop, which I made much smaller and simpler. This time I put up a simple rope ridgeline and used a much smaller tarp, only 16′ by 20′. Some smaller spruce Christmas trees had grown perfectly straight, reaching high for sunlight in the now-dense planting. I felled and barked one of them, setting it aside to dry, thinking it would probably make a great mast. Vida and I worked, and I pecked away at the remaining boat projects.

Luckily, we had landed close to another small family-run sawmill. The whole family worked together, turning out piles of beautiful lumber, and providing great friendly service. They sold me a nice rough-sawn ash 2×10 that I could use to make a pair of oars. I worked, again, without power tools. After roughly sawing and shaping the oars, I snapped out a rectangular piece of thrift-store saw blade, and filed a hollow into one edge to make a scraper I could use to remove the plane and spokeshave marks from shaping the oars. They were much heavier than they would have been if I’d used spruce, but I’ve snapped enough paddles and oars in the past to know I wanted something rugged to propel a sure-to-be heavy craft. Despite their heavy weight and rough finish, I was proud of them, especially after I’d laced the leathers on them, and protected the blade tips with folded copper sheet.

Vida Stamey

Launch day was my first time sculling a boat. I had made a raised sculling notch over the stern to have an alternative way to propel the boat and to hold the steering oar in place while sailing. I found sculling to be delightful, and when the river became very narrow and clogged with downed trees, it became essential.

Everyone had told me that making and installing the myriad small pieces were the real work of building a boat and took the most time. I’d been doubtful, but after making the maststep, partner, floorboards, cleats, fairleads, oars, and tholes, I was convinced. It seemed like I would never be done with every little piece. Then—all of a sudden—the mornings were frosty, and it was too late to do all the oiling and painting I wanted to get done before launching, and I was greatly disappointed.

With the frost came the end of our work, and it was time to move again. With a job waiting for Vida in Virginia, but still a couple months away, we had another spell of free time and headed south early. As the new year kicked off, the boat got dragged onto a rented trailer once more, with my tools, scraps of wood, and half-finished bits tucked underneath, and we headed for North Carolina to be someplace warm, quiet, and closer to Vida’s upcoming job. I was determined to put the boat in the water before another big move, and I didn’t care if all the work was finished or not. We got a storage unit and used it for a workshop, commuting to the unit from wherever we’d camped in the nearby national forest. After we painted the boat and oiled the oars, spars, decks and all the little bits of trim with boat soup (a mix of pine tar, linseed oil, and turpentine), the next move was to a campsite on the banks of the White Oak River. I roughed out a few final pieces, but any remaining details that could be ignored were left unfinished or absent. I was just too eager to get on the water.

Vida Stamey

Turtle is investigating her new floating home while I wave farewell and start what I thought of as sea trials: a few days rowing down the river to see if the boat felt suitable for venturing off into bigger water.

A few days after the move, a short spell of cold weather and frosty mornings gave way, and we woke to a sunny morning, full of birdsong, warmer than any day for weeks. It was easy to forget it was still winter. The meandering swampy river was perfect for a first sea trial. We blew up our beach rollers, and slowly rolled the boat to the water. To reach the river we had to lower the boat down a steep muddy bank with a line secured to a cleat on the bow. It was a tense moment, as it was the first cleat I’d made and I had no clue what kind of load it could take. As the boat dangled precariously at the water’s edge, with the rollers bent and twitching over logs and rocks in the bank, Vida held the line while I kept the rollers in position and guided the boat over the uneven terrain. Finally, the stern dipped inch by inch into the water, its wide flat expanse rising easily, lifting the boat off the first roller, and then the second, and then swoosh: the line was released, and the boat slid out into the dark swampy water. We pulled the nose back to shore and christened her the MUDDY TURTLE. We celebrated by pouring ourselves each a glass of sparkling rosé, with a splash over the bow for the boat as well.

Floating high and easy and drawing about 7″, her simple workboat lines and finish were perfectly at home in the dark-stained water and among the cypress trees. Already a little muddy from her trip down to the river, the name MUDDY TURTLE instantly felt appropriate, and I was glad I’d taken the time to carve the little mahogany nameplate and burn in the lettering. It gave a little more presence to the big flat trapezoidal transom. I stepped from the shore straight onto the foredeck, and perched at the very bow of the craft, surprised to be comfortable and easily able to balance. I shoved off with the coppered blade of my oar and walked easily back to the stern to drop it into the sculling notch.

Greg Goodman

About 10 days after launching, I anchored in a little tidal stream next to Fort Macon in North Carolina. I was starting to get into a rhythm, and finally stopped worrying that I would wake up floating on my sleeping mat while the boat was filling with water around me.

Within 24 hours of the launch, I was underway on a test row down the river with Turtle while Vida headed to the river mouth to set up camp where we would rendezvous. A few days later I got to the end of the river, but I didn’t want to stop. So, Vida took the truck and headed to work in Virginia, while Turtle and I set off for bigger water to see just what the little boat could do. The short sea trial turned into a six-week meandering solo cruise, exploring almost 400 miles of North Carolina’s bays, rivers, and ocean coast. My beautiful little boat came to prove that ignorance can, when it comes to boats, lead to bliss.

Greg Goodman grew up alongside a little river in Connecticut. Eventually he realized that his backyard stream flowed out into Long Island sound, and ultimately connected his yard to the whole world. He became instantly interested in using small boats to enjoy all the beautiful places bound together by water. Travel in many forms has dominated his life thus far, and he has been almost constantly on the move for the last 18 years, stopping for seasonal work, or spectacular places that occasionally keep him in one spot for more than a season. He is rarely without some kind of small boat, and has enjoyed many miles of paddling, rowing, and sailing in the U.S. and abroad. He is currently making his way to Washington state, to find work, build another boat, and then kick off another water adventure.

If you have an interesting story to tell about your adventures with a small boat, please email us a brief outline and a few photos.

A Walkway for a Trailex Trailer

When my partner, Marti Wolfe, got a Drake 17, a 17′ 4″ double-ended rowing boat, she bought an aluminum SUT Trailex trailer, which is popular among small-boat owners. Trailex is one of the few companies that makes trailers specifically for light boats, including those for rowing and paddling.

Most small-boat trailers, built for the ubiquitous outboard skiffs, have Y-shaped frames to accommodate the breadth of the transom, and stiffer suspensions to support the weight of the motor. Even the lighter of such trailers may have a 1,000-lb capacity. But Trailex’s SUT line of small-boat trailers are sprung for much lighter loads and thus give lightweight boats a softer ride. The SUT-220-SA, which Marti bought, is for boats up to 17′ and 220 lbs, and the larger SUT-350-S is for narrow boats up to 22′ and 350 lbs. These SUT trailers have a single central beam that extends between and beyond the wheels. While the small roller on its back end supports the stern of the boat, it makes a small target for the bow of a returning boat. And the beam itself is no place to stand for either launching or retrieving.

1Photographs by the author

The tail end of the trailer was little more than the slender aluminum beam, seen here in the center. Two 2×4s secured to it support the two 2×6s that provide a walkway to the end of the trailer. The roller, with end caps, offers a wide target for retrieving the bow without damaging it.

Marti launches her Drake 17, LJ, in salt water daily, and to protect the trailer bearings, she keeps them out of the water. This leaves the boat perched above the water and since standing or walking on the trailer’s slender center beam is out of the question, she has to wear boots and wade to handle the boat at the ramp.

After we set-up the trailer with rollers, bunks and guide poles, I wanted to add a walkway so Marti could walk safely to the back of the trailer to launch and recover the boat. Over the wheels, the rectangular frame of crossbars and siderails could support a plank to make a walkway, but we needed to add crosspieces to support an extension of the walkway over the tail end of the center beam. At Marti’s suggestion, we removed the taillights and bolted a 32″-long 2×4 to the pair of now-empty L-brackets. The spacing of the bolt holes in the L-brackets just happened to make it possible to use the bolts to anchor the frame of a 10″ roller. I used an extra-long axle for the roller so I could add end caps, which would prevent damage to a bow that misses the target.

2

The trailer’s crossbars support the back ends of the 2×6s that serve as the middle section of the walkway. Their forward ends are lag-bolted to a 2×4 secured to the trailer tongue.

The 2×4 crosspiece worked brilliantly. We painted it dayglo orange to make it more visible when the trailer has no boat on it. I attached another 2×4 crosspiece to support the forward ends of two 2×6s. This 2×4 is about 17″ long and spans both the 2×6 walkway pieces and the 6″ gap between them, which is required by the small roller fixed to the trailer’s center beam. The 2×4 lies flat on the beam and is secured with carriage bolts on either side of the beam. The ends of the bolts are slipped through holes in a 1″-thick hardwood cleat that spans the bottom of the beam. Nuts and washers finish the connection. The 2×6s are set on top of the two crosspieces and are secured with lag bolts, finishing the aft part of the walkway.

3

A single plank secured to the tongue serves as the forward end of the walkway. If something wider is preferred, 2×4 crosspieces, like those used on the other sections of the walkway, can support a pair of planks.

For the center section, I cut 2×8s to fit the length of the square frame formed by the trailer’s aluminum crossbars and siderails and secured the planks with carriage bolts and hardwood cleats. For the forward walkway, I bolted a single 2×8 to the trailer tongue with nuts captured in the channel molded into the extrusion. It was a rather fussy chore, and I would recommend, instead, using the paired bolts with a wooden cleat as described above.

With the walkway complete, I mounted the taillights on top of the 2×4 at the back rather than on its face to minimize the chance of the boat’s stem hitting them. Instead of going to the hardware store and buying mending plates, I used short lengths of a salvaged fiberglass sail batten to connect the lights to the 2×4. The wires for the trailer’s lights led through the central extrusion and had enough extra length to reach the lights in their new positions, farther from the centerline. I had to drill a hole in the wooden cross bar through which I could run the wires. I ran ground wires from the lights (which are no longer in contact with the metal trailer) to bolts connected to the trailer beam. Mounting the trailer lights high has the added benefit of keeping them out of the water. I haven’t yet fixed the 2×4 to allow the left taillight to illuminate the license plate. A little auxiliary light or taking a couple of cuts off the corner of the 2×4 will do the job.

4

There’s enough slope on this boat ramp to keep the trailer bearings out of the saltwater and yet bring the back end very close to the water, making it an easy lift to bring the boat up onto the end roller. The walkway provides a secure platform from which to handle the boat

Improving a trailer to make handling small rowing and sailing boats easier will depend on the trailer. Some kind of walkway is well worth fitting to any small-boat trailer. The Y-shaped frame of most trailers makes it an easily applied addition as the parallel extremities of the Y provide convenient support for added cross bars. But with just a few pieces of common lumber and a free weekend, you can add a walkway to even a light Trailex single-beam frame. Now Marti can walk LJ out to the end of her trailer to launch and recover her boat.

Ben Fuller, curator emeritus of the Penobscot Marine Museum in Searsport, Maine, and former curator of Mystic Seaport and Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, has been messing about in small boats for a very long time. He is owned by a dozen or more boats ranging from an International Canoe to a faering.

You can share your tips and tricks of the trade with other Small Boats Magazine readers by sending us an email.

Paddle Pump

Small boats limit what can be carried aboard and gear that has multiple purposes saves valuable space. We always carry a paddle and a means to bail, so when we came across the Paddle Pump, we were eager to give it a try.

Kent Lewis

With the shaft fully extended and locked with the collet, the Paddle Pump is 60″ long.

The Paddle Pump was created by two Maine seaplane pilots, who often had a need to pump out a pontoon or move a plane a short distance to or from a dock. The beavertail blade offers good power and the locking collet facilitates a range of shaft length adjustments from 36″ to 60″. The compact storage length of 36″ makes it easy to store in the small cockpit of our Sunfish and is a good length for paddling our Grumman 17 Double-Ender canoe. The blade measures 7″ wide at the widest point and is just over 17″ long. Overall, the paddle has a nice balanced feel.

The Paddle Pump ejects water on the downstroke. Here at the end of that stroke, the paddle is at its shortest length, 36″, which will fit in even this Sunfish’s small footwell.

The Paddle Pump weighs just 1.4 pounds, and while that is more than our custom-made spruce paddle, the durable materials used can take a beating whether inside a bilge or while fending off docks and obstacles. The pump valve is designed to tolerate sand and grime from bilges. The shaft is made of anodized aluminum and the blade and handle are made from an ABS mixture of recycled plastics. Plans are in the works to source future blade materials from captured ocean waste.

The Paddle Pump can move 5 gallons of water per minute at 10 strokes per gallon. The valve action is smooth and, unlike the more common small-boat pumps, the Paddle Pump discharges water on the downstroke and through one side of its T handle. The stroke length and rate can be varied to suit the user. Skipper prefers shorter strokes with a faster turnover rate while I like a full draw of water for each pump. The shorter stroke can also allow the pump to be used in constricted spaces. A hose extension is available to help move water overboard in larger boats. That said, we found that the pump can shoot water, without the hose, well over 20′—handy for summertime water fights. The T handle provides a secure/firm grip, and we found that the optional float sleeve accessory gave us a more positive grip on the metal paddle shaft. The paddle will float for a couple of minutes without the sleeve; by adding the float sleeve we ensured that the paddle will stay afloat ready to help keep us afloat.

Audrey and Kent Lewis have pumped bilge water from the Gulf of Mexico to the Pacific and now in the Tidewater Region of Virginia. Their small boat adventures are logged at Small Boat Restoration.

The Paddle Pump is manufactured and sold by Paddle Pumps of Maine for $89.

Is there a product that might be useful for boatbuilding, cruising, or shore-side camping that you’d like us to review? Please email your suggestions.

Taku Essential Jacket

In the late 1970s, when Gore-Tex garments were just coming on the market, I was newly out of college, happily jobless, and devoted to outdoor adventures. I did things on the cheap and made a lot of my own gear, so I bought a few yards of Gore-Tex fabric and sewed myself a rain jacket. I kept the project simple and didn’t add pockets, armpit zippers, or any of the fancy features that are available now in foulweather gear. I didn’t miss any of the extras. The PFD I wore while rowing and sailing would have covered any pockets if I’d had them, backpack straps did the same while I was hiking, and the smooth shell was free of flapping pockets while on bicycle trips.

In the simplicity of its design, the Taku Essential waterproof jacket, made by Mustang Survival of Burnaby, British Columbia, brought back fond memories of that jacket I made almost 50 years ago. As the name suggests, the Taku is pared down to the essentials. It has a clean exterior with only two pockets, flush with the jacket body and evident only by the zippered openings discreetly incorporated in the side seams.

The fabric used in the making of the Taku is Mustang’s Marine Spec SP, a laminate that has an inner layer of nylon tricot and an outer layer of 70D nylon coated with a PFC-free hydrophobic polyurethane. In between is a windproof, breathable, and waterproof polyurethane membrane.

Christopher Cunningham

Clamped to the perimeter of a storage bin, the jacket’s fabric and taped seams could be immersed in water to confirm they are waterproof.

In a rainfall, the drops beaded up on the fabric and rolled off, which showed the effectiveness of the fabric’s durable water repellent (DWR). Testing the waterproof/breathable polyurethane membrane sandwiched inside the jacket’s fabric required more than rainfall or a stand-in-the-bathtub shower. I used a plastic storage bin and some spring clamps to pool water on parts of the jacket’s back, sleeves, shoulders, and some of the seams between them. After more than five hours, no water had seeped through the jacket. That was enough to give me confidence in the Taku’s ability to keep me dry.

Christopher Cunningham

With the back of the jacket between a pot of warm water and boot driers filed with desiccant, the fabric’s breathability could be confirmed and quantified.

The jacket seemed as breathable as other garments I wear with different waterproof/breathable fabrics, and perhaps even a bit less clammy because the Marine Spec SP has some firmness that keeps it from clinging and allows air to circulate. During a 30-minute workout on my elliptical trainer, I broke a sweat at about the same time as I do without the jacket and not noticeably earlier as I thought might be the case while wearing an extra layer. To take a homespun objective measure of breathability, I filled an 8-quart cookpot with water at 96°F and stretched the back of the coat over it. I rested two newly recharged desiccant-filled boot driers on the jacket and cinched a plastic bag over it all. I had weighed the two driers at the start and after an hour the desiccant had gained 4 grams from the water vapor that had passed through the jacket. That figure by itself isn’t sufficient to compare the Marine Spec SP with other like fabrics, but it showed that it was breathable.

Christopher Cunningham

The front of the Taku is uninterrupted by pockets or storm flaps.

The jacket front and outside pockets have YKK AquaGuard zippers, rated by the manufacturer as “water repellent, not waterproof/watertight.” The zippers are not covered by storm flaps, though they have small hoods at their tops that the sliders, which are vulnerable to leaks, can be tucked into. The front zipper is backed by a placket. I sprayed the front zipper with my kitchen-sink sprayer for several minutes. No water flowed through, and the only sign of it was a glistening in between the interlocking zipper teeth and a few nascent drops. Nothing got past the placket.

The hem has an adjustable stretch drawcord to minimize drafts and a small webbing loop to anchor an outboard-motor kill switch. The side pockets have a light fleece liner on the outside surface to warm the backs of the hands. The cuffs can be cinched tight around the wrists to keep the water out, though the pleat formed when the cuffs are closed allows water to trickle in if the hands are raised above elbows in a downpour. The neoprene gaskets I have on another jacket make a more complete seal, but I rarely need them.

Christopher Cunningham

The Marine Spec SP fabric has a firmness to it that creates space underneath it, lending an airy feel to the jacket.

The Taku Essential has a small pocket with a coil zipper inside the left front chest. Mustang notes that the pocket secures essentials. For me, that includes car keys, and it will be easy to sew a bit of webbing and small plastic clip in the pocket to make sure they won’t fall out if I forget to close the zipper.

The hood has a visor stiffened just enough to do its job and a cinch to snug the opening against the face. A second cinch pulls the sides of the hood back to keep it from obscuring the view to the sides. When I turn my head, the hood comes with me about halfway and then stops, but even as I turn further, it doesn’t block my field of view. When not in use, the hood rests on the jacket back. There isn’t a zippered pouch in the collar for stowing the hood, a feature I don’t miss. I can pull the collar, fully zipped, up to my nose and keep my neck and much of my face covered. The jacket’s fit is excellent. My arms have a full range of motion without restriction. Only if I cross my arms in front of my chest, elbow to elbow, do I feel the jacket tighten against my back.

Jenny Bennett, executive editor of Small Boats, had an opportunity to try the women’s Taku, with a few more features than the men’s Taku Essential, and made some observations:

I’m usually a medium but don’t like clothes to be tight, so when I saw on the Mustang website reviews from “medium” women who were happy they had sized up to a large, I did the same. I’d say the jacket is true to size but while the fit of the large is definitely generous on me and doesn’t show its shape well, it’s very comfortable and I’m fine with it: in summer it won’t feel restricting and in winter I will be able to wear layers underneath.

Laura Harrington

At the back of the hood is the drawcord that pulls the sides out of the wearer’s field of vision.

The hood seemed enormous, but three cinch cords allow you to pull it both backwards—lifting it up and away from your face—and against the side of your head to prevent it coming off in a headwind. I like the hood’s two-way adjustments.

Laura Harrington

Wearing a larger size than that on the Mustang sizing chart masks the tapered waist of the women’s Taku, but pays off in comfort and extra room for adding warm layers underneath in cold weather.

The length is perfect (I’m 5’5” and the tail hangs just below my butt), and the sleeves, which are perhaps a tad long when my arms are hanging down, can be cinched in at the cuffs and, when I extend my arms out in front, don’t ride halfway up my forearm. The Taku has two chest-high pockets, cinchable neoprene cuffs inside cinchable outer cuffs, and a stretch-nylon pocket just inside the zip on the right-hand side at the bottom of the jacket. I walked outside in heavy rain for about an hour and came home with dry shoulders.

I made my jacket in the ’70s without all the extras because I didn’t want to do more sewing than I had to, but it turned out to be all that I needed for my adventures on roads, trails, and waterways. With the Taku Essential, Mustang has created a much finer example of “less is more,” achieving its goal of designing a “jacket for exploring inshore and coastal environments when you want the essentials and nothing more.”

Christopher Cunningham is the editor of Small Boats.

The Women’s Taku Waterproof Jacket ($399.99 USD) and the Men’s Taku Essential Waterproof Jacket ($359.99) are available from Mustang Survival and their associated retailers. The Men’s Taku Waterproof Jacket ($399.99), not reviewed here, has features similar to those of the women’s model. The jackets are on sale in observation of Canada Day and the Fourth of July, ending at midnight Pacific Coast Time July 4, 2024: Women’s Taku $279.99 USD, Men’s Taku Essential $251.99, and Men’s Taku $279.99.

Is there a product that might be useful for boatbuilding, cruising, or shore-side camping that you’d like us to review? Please email your suggestions.

From Sailboat to Motorboat

Quentin Verhaegen lives on Vancouver Island in British Columbia. He describes it as “a Pacific island with a microclimate,” a place that is “more than beautiful most of the time.” He has lived there for 31 years with his wife and daughter (who’s currently working in London), but he was born in Belgium and his journey to Canada was far from linear. As Quentin puts it, his life has been “full of adventure.”

When he finished school in Belgium Quentin was required to do national service, either military service or civic service in an underdeveloped country. He chose the latter and went to be a teacher in Morocco. While he was there, he built a boat, a 50-footer (37′ on deck) with “an enormous bowsprit, telephone poles for masts, and hand-built sails.” Then, in the middle of his tenure in Morocco, he went to Bermuda to take a course in marine biology. He met a young Swedish woman doing the same course and some time later invited her to visit him in Africa. “There was a group coming to Morocco for an expedition and I asked her to join. There were supposed to be six of us, but luckily the other four canceled. Ingrid came out, went home to finish her studies, and then came back and helped me to finish the boat.”

Photographs by Ingrid Holm

The 24’ MacGregor sloop has a partial keel—visible here just to the right of the trailer fender—which makes it easy to launch at an ordinary boat ramp. The pivoting centerboard it housed wouldn’t be needed, so Quentin fixed the board in its raised position and ’glassed over the slot.

The two adventurers left Morocco to sail the world, ending up in Australia where they sold the boat and moved ashore. Ingrid found a well-paid job that she enjoyed, and Quentin built houses. Seven years later they were off again, this time on a 47′ Bowman, a cruising sloop that they fitted out from a bare hull and deck.

They sailed for Canada because, says Quentin, “we’d decided to have a baby and that meant we had to be serious, and we thought British Columbia would be one of the best places to settle down.” They arrived 18 months later with a baby daughter and “not much else.” They sold the boat to buy a house and Quentin found work building caskets. Over the ensuing years he went through many jobs before eventually joining a small Victoria ferry company where he worked on maintaining the boats. He and Ingrid were, he says, “typical itinerant boat people.”

Backyard boatbuilding is often a challenge, especially when space is tight, but with most of the work being inboard and below the waterline, Quentin, here wearing white coveralls and ear protectors, would make it work.

As their daughter Kristina grew up, there was always one boat or another—always sail, never more than 27′, “just your typical inexpensive fiberglass sailboats.” But in recent years the family has been without a boat. “We missed it, though. It’s wonderful sailing here. We needed to have a boat.”

As strong as the desire to get afloat was, Quentin and Ingrid were also sure they wanted to do things differently. They love to sail but were tired of sailing into beautiful anchorages and not being able to see the view from within the cabin: “The seats are always too low, the windows too small. We wanted a motorboat, not necessarily because we didn’t want to sail, but because we wanted to wake up, sit in the cabin, have a cup of coffee, and see the beautiful land and seascape around us. We wanted it to be economical, low-maintenance, trailerable, and we wanted to be able to use it year-round in the Gulf Islands. We wanted it to have heat but not be a gas-guzzler, and because I snore loudly, Ingrid said I needed my own separate cabin.”

The re-purposed bow with straightened stem, sharper entry, and raised bulwark gave the boat the “motorboat/tugboat” appearance Quentin was striving for.

They started searching for the right boat at the right price. “But we couldn’t find it. Typically,” Quentin says, “old motorboats around here have a big captain’s seat with a big wheel, big engines…big everything. We didn’t want that, so we thought we’d build our own boat on a very low budget. But again, we couldn’t find anything suitable. So instead, we decided to buy an inexpensive secondhand sailboat and convert it. The problem of what to do with old fiberglass hulls is growing, and around here there’s a lot of used trailerable sailboats in reasonable condition that people just don’t want. Converting seemed like a viable alternative to building from scratch, and an affordable solution both for us and the landfill issue. But you can’t convert any old sailboat into a motorboat; it has to be the right shape.”

They settled on a 1973, 24′ MacGregor, a trailerable sloop with retractable keel and transom-hung rudder. “It was perfect,” says Quentin. “First there was the price: $1,600CAD with a trailer in late 2022. Then there was the shape: beamy, about 8′ carried well aft. The hull’s bottom is flat from amidships all the way aft…it’s the perfect combination for motoring.”

Rather than removing everything in the cabin and starting from scratch, Quentin worked with much of the original structure. He installed the settee berths along the same lines as the originals but raised them substantially to provide both storage under and good seated views through the cabin windows. He also lowered the foot of the companionway opening to reduce the “up-and-over” step when coming from the cockpit into the cabin.

Over the next 18 months, Quentin and Ingrid set about converting the MacGregor from tired sailboat to “new” motorboat in the backyard of their island home. By choice, Quentin worked alone, and for the most part stayed hidden when casual visitors came by. “If people called in to see me while I was working, I wouldn’t stop, I wouldn’t lift my head. I’d see their feet and then, after a while, they’d go away. And I didn’t go to too many people for ideas because that slows me down. I really do have all the experience I needed, but I work in an unorthodox way. I don’t cut corners, but I also don’t ask myself too many questions and get bogged down.”

The interior quickly took shape. Quentin used construction-grade plywood, ’glassed and epoxied both inside and out, with solid cedar for framing. He chose cedar for its ease of working and light weight.

For all his solitary inclinations, Quentin has an engaging manner, a ready smile, and an infectious sense of humor. He smiles as he reveals that Ingrid is very capable of doing all the work that he did, but “she pretends she doesn’t know how. She can do fiberglass work, cut bulkheads, apply epoxy, build anything…I’ve seen her. But she’s very smart, she leaves me to get on with it. Then before I can make a mess, she jumps in to do all the finishwork.”

The project would consume 400 hours over a year and a half, working at what Quentin describes as a “retired slow pace.”

Quentin painted most of the interior plywood but varnished the cedar frame. The large windows and light colors resulted in a bright and airy cabin. Up forward is Ingrid’s master V-berth with a portable toilet under and an opening coachroof hatch above for maximum ventilation. The galley holds a simple propane stove and a small sink fed by a 10-liter jerry can with a spigot. The foot of the starboard side berth extends beneath the galley countertop.

After he got the boat home, he pulled everything out of it until he had just a bare hull. Then he chopped off the bow about 18″ back from the stem and, using solid wood and fiberglass, both inside and out, rebuilt it “motorboat/tugboat style with a high bulwark.” He set the swing keel in its raised position, which left the 18″ of fixed keel still protruding from the hull, and determining that this would be ample for tracking, he ’glassed over its slot. He added two 6′-long, 12″-deep bilge keels that would counteract any rolling and allow the boat to be beached.

From inside the hull, he filled the void between the retracted keel and the sides of the trunk with tar and then fiberglassed over the entire structure. “Tar is cheap,” Quentin says. “When it’s heated up it flows into all the gaps and fills any voids. Then, as it cools, it sets rigid so that all you have to do is ’glass over it to keep it stable.”

The 9.9-hp outboard is concealed within an oversized well with hinged lid to provide easy access. The motor will push the boat up to 6.5 knots. The auxiliary 2.5-hp outboard, which can push the boat at 3.5 knots at half throttle, is fixed to an articulated bracket to keep its lower unit out of the water when it’s not in use. Both outboards are operated with their tillers, so the visibility forward, says Quentin, is not great, but he wanted to keep things simple rather than add a center console with cabling. He does use a tiller extension so he can stand up on either side bench, or on the side deck, and look above or around the cabin top.

Confident that the keel and bilge keels would provide the converted hull with good directional stability, Quentin decided not to fit a skeg. “We wanted the engine low down in a well, and for the prop to stay deep so that it would not come out of the water in any seas. A skeg would simply have complicated things.”

To accommodate a new 9.9-hp four-stroke Mercury outboard, along with two 20-lb propane tanks for cooking and heating, and two 6-gallon gas tanks, Quentin converted the lazarette into a combined engine well and airtight fuel-and-propane locker. Then he turned his attention to the accommodations. In the cockpit he created two spacious storage lockers beneath side benches. One of the lockers serves as his berth. “It’s wonderful,” he says. “I have everything I need, a cozy bed, light, soundproofing, ventilation. I can sleep with the hatch open and look at the stars and listen to the wildlife, and Ingrid is in her own heaven, up forward with the heater, far away from my snoring.”

Quentin enjoys tight but comfortable quarters in the “captain’s cabin” where his snoring doesn’t bother his wife who sleeps in the V-berth in the bow. He has all he needs: a bed, light, ventilation, and an unobscured view of the night sky.

The cabin is built of 1⁄4″ construction-grade plywood with solid cedar framing. “The difference between construction-grade and marine-grade,” says Quentin, “is that it does have some voids. But if it’s used above the waterline, and well-sealed with epoxy inside and cloth and epoxy outside, it’ll last forever.”

With the exception of the captain’s quarters, the accommodations are spacious for a boat of this size. In the bow, Ingrid has a generous V-berth, while in the main cabin there are two settee berths from which “you have a full view through the large windows when you’re sitting down.” To starboard there is a two-burner gas stove and sink.

In her home slip, SCOUT looks every part the comfortable coastal-cruising motorboat. The red tender that sits atop the coachroof was designed and built by Quentin. It has a center buoyancy tank that doubles as a seat, and two rowing positions to accommodate either a lone rower or a rower with passenger. It weighs about 60 lbs and is 6’ long with a 4’ beam. When the crew doesn’t feel like rowing, the tender can use SCOUT’s 2.5-hp auxiliary outboard.

The cockpit sole is above the waterline and self-drains through a lateral pipe above the waterline. There are no other through-hulls. “There’s a Porta-Potti under the forward berth, and the water for the sink is a 10-liter jerry can with a spigot; it sits on the shelf above the sink. No through-hulls, no pumps, no hoses, no complications.”

Quentin and Ingrid launched SCOUT in early 2024 and quickly used her on eight occasions for overnight trips around islands near Victoria. “We’re very happy,” Quentin says. “We’re not familiar with motorboats, so it’s going to take us some time to get used to the maneuverability. For instance, we’re used to approaching docks and moorings slowly, leeward side, head-to-wind. Now we can turn on a dime and use reverse and increased revs. We’re learning to enjoy that power!”

With the MacGregor’s transformation complete, there is little to suggest SCOUT’s past life as a sailboat. With her shoal draft, she can be anchored close in shore, and Quentin is looking forward to the day when they anchor off and he can wade to a beach.

With the 9.9-hp outboard they can make 6.5 knots (hull-speed) at almost-full throttle, and an easy 5.5 knots at half. While they have been cautiously sea-trialing in decent weather, the last time they went out, Quentin says there was a 20-knot wind funneling between the islands with a “fairly big chop and we did roll a bit, but not excessively, and it did well. But it’s definitely a boat designed for relatively protected, coastal waters. For example, between the cockpit and the cabin the threshold isn’t very high—I didn’t want to have to negotiate a big step up and over. So, if the cockpit were swamped by a big wave, it would swamp the whole boat.”

But Quentin and Ingrid have no desire to go ocean-voyaging. For them, the many nearby Gulf Islands hold the promise of endless days of pleasant cruising. “At half-throttle we use 1.7 liters of gas per hour. Each of our two gas tanks holds 24 liters, so we should have close to 30 hours of cruising time before we run out of gas. With all the islands to explore, we’ll go for maybe five-day trips and by then we’ll have had enough. But before that we’ll have had days of comfortable cruising, relaxing in beautiful anchorages in the warmth and shelter of the cabin, and still being able to see the amazing view. You can’t ask for better than that.”

Jenny Bennett is managing editor of Small Boats.

Do you have a boat with an interesting story? Please email us. We’d like to hear about it and share it with other Small Boats readers.

20′ 3″ Flatfish Class Sloop

The winter of 1913 saw the great Nathanael G. Herreshoff wintering in Bermuda, with a new boat, ALERION, designed for his own use. He was so pleased with this new design that most of his subsequent small sailboat designs could trace their lineage to her.

In 1914 came the wonderful 12½-footer, and the next winter brought a some­what larger version, known as the Fish class. The boats in Alerion’s extended family, including the Buzzard’s Bay 25s, the Newport 29s, and the Fishers Island 31s, share cer­tain traits-shapely hulls, fast sailing, impeccable man­ners, and long lives.

Flatfish Particulars

 

In 1986, WoodenBoat introduced the Haven 12½ ­footer, designer Joel White’s centerboard version of the Herreshoff 12½. These boats were so successful and the design so well received that Joel was persuaded to design a similar centerboard conversion of the Fish class boat, which he has named Flatfish.

Like the Haven 12 ½, the Flatfish will require an accomplished builder. With the exception of the centerboard and its case, the original scantlings and construction details are used throughout, and Herreshoff drew his designs with the skilled builders of his day in mind. In addition, this hull must be carefully lofted if the full beauty of Flatfish’s hull is to be realized. Wooden Boat’s monograph How to Build the Haven 12 ½-Footer will provide valuable help to the Flatfish builder as well, as the two boats are very similar in construction.

Flatfish Drawings

 

The result will be more than worth the effort, as this boat must surely be one of the most lovely and able daysailers ever conceived. Yes, a well-built Flatfish, with proper care, will be a cherished possession for generations to come.

Plans for the 20’3″ Flatfish Class Sloop are printed on six sheets, and include lines and offsets, construction, gaff and marconi sail plans, and details for spars, hardware, and ballast keel. WB Plan No. 129, $150.00. (Note: Plans are currently sold out for the Flatfish.)

Flatfish Plans

 

Plan 129

DESCRIPTION
Hull type: Round-bottomed. keel/ centerboard
Rig: Gaff or marconi sloop
Construction: Carvel planked over steam-bent frames

PERFORMANCE* Suitable for: Somewhat protected waters
* Intended capacity: 1-5 daysailing Trailerable: Yes
Propulsion: Sail

BUILDING DATA
Skill needed: Advanced
Lofting required: Yes
* Alternative construction: None
Helpful information: How to Build the Haven 12 ½-Footer, by Maynard Bray

PLANS DATA
No. of sheets: 6
Level of detail: Average
Cost per set: $150.00
WB Plan No. 129

*See page 96 for further information.

Completed 20’3″ Flatfish Class Sloop Images

Photo by Alison Langley

An original Herreshoff Fish, SHARK, near Noank, Connnecticut. The Fish is narrower and deeper than the Flatfish; the greater beam of the Flatfish compensates for the reduced stability caused by the newer design’s shallower keel.

15′ 6″ Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff

Nowadays Maine lobstermen work from boats that are industrial-scale fishing platforms: they are long, wide, and powered with many hundreds of diesel-fueled horsepower. Many tend some 800 traps apiece. But there was a time when the typical lobster fleet was in large part made up of vessels similar to this able workboat. Joel White’s Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff is intended to serve as an efficient tool to get out on the water to work. At nearly 16′ long, she would have served an entry-level lobsterman or high-school student tending a smaller number of traps and learning the ropes. However, she is equally well-suited to recreational pursuits—trolling for mackerel, casting for stripers, or just buzzing about.

15’6″ Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff Particulars

Her classic lines recall the days of the mid-twentieth century when Maine lobsterboats were slim and svelte, envied for their seakeeping qualities and efficient speed. Unlike her larger sisters of that era, which would have been propelled by automotive gasoline inboards adapted for marine service, the Jericho Bay is intended for outboard power—and not too big an outboard. Her narrow beam and narrower stern will deliver best performance when moderately powered—say 15-hp as a minimum to plane, and a maximum no greater than 25-hp. Any more and the boat’s trim will suffer from the weight, and safety will suffer from the speed.

The plans for the Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff are extensive in number and adequate in detail. Many of the 15 sheets are full-size patterns taken directly from the building jig for the prototype, so accuracy is assured. Missing is much detail about how the boat goes together—but the build is simple enough that this is not a big hindrance. The full-sized molds are erected on a simple ladder-frame, a laminated stem and transom are secured to the jig (all parts are patterned), and ½” strip planking is edge-glued over the molds and sheathed inside and out with fiberglass and epoxy. The result is light, sturdy and low-maintenance.

Although the full-sized patterns mean that lofting is unnecessary, lines and offsets are included with the plans, and make interesting study. A noticeable “hook” is evident in the buttock lines of the bottom, just forward of the transom, serving as a built-in trim tab or “shingle” (as the old-timers used to call them), preventing the bow from rising abruptly as the boat comes on plane.

Plan 145

DESCRIPTION
Hull type: Round-bottomed, transom sterned
Construction: Strip

PERFORMANCE
Suitable for somewhat protected waters
Intended capacity: 13
Trailerable
Propulsion: 15–20-hp outboard

BUILDING DATA
Skill needed: Intermediate
Lofting required: No

PLANS DATA
No. of sheets: 15
Supplemental information: 1 page
Level of Detail: Above average
Plans Format: Print or Digital
Cost per set: $90
Related Publications:
WoodenBoat Nos. 210, 211

Completed 15’6″ Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff Photos

Jericho Bay Lobster SkiffMatthew P. Murphy

The Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff seen here is a strip-planked, fiberglass-sheathed copy of a plank-on-frame hull designed by Joel White and built by Jimmy Steele in the 1970s.

Bulkheads under the seats enclose storage compartments and serve as framing to reinforce the glued-lap plywood construction.

Bulkheads under the seats enclose storage compartments and serve as framing to reinforce the glued-lap plywood construction.

James's lapstrake version of the skiff made it lighter and easier to maintain than the carvel originals.

James’s lapstrake version of the skiff made it lighter and easier to maintain than the carvel originals.

On it's inaugural outing LIBBY B lived up to her builder's expectations.Photographs courtesy of Bob and Beth Burns

On it’s inaugural outing LIBBY B lived up to her builder’s expectations.

 

13′ 7″ MacGregor Canoe

The 19th-century Scot, John MacGregor, is generally credited with devising the decked, double-paddle sailing canoe, then popularizing it by writing of international cruises he made aboard his canoe ROB ROY. The Iain Oughtred design presented here is the larger of two Oughtred-designed canoes offered by WoodenBoat. Although at 13′ 7″, it is a bit smaller than many first-generation boats of this type.

Line drawing and list of particulars for the MacGregor canoe.

The MacGregor canoe can sail with a single balanced lug or rigged as a yawl.

 

Unlike the original models, Oughtred’s MacGregor can be built on a tight schedule and with average skills, thanks to the recent development of glued-seam lapstrake plywood construction. To further ease and accelerate the building process, Oughtred has provided lofting-free full-sized patterns, and a companion instructional booklet on methods and materials.

The MacGregor shares much with her smaller sister, Wee Rob (WB Plan No. 79). Both are ultralight, traditionally attractive, versatile canoes. Both offer decked/undecked options; both can be expanded to longer lengths on a fixed beam; and both have been given the seakeeping benefits of greater flare, freeboard, and keel rocker than were typical of the old canoes of this kind.

Side profile view of MacGregor canoe line drawing.

Adjust mold spacing and stem profiles to build MacGregor at 13′ 7″, 15′ 8″, or 17′ 3″.

A further refinement in Oughtred’s design is the marked reduction of excesses in joinerwork and rigging often seen in the older boats. A simple bulkhead opening has replaced deck hatches; a quick-change leeboard replaces a complex, folding centerboard; and simplified (but still authentic) sail plans — a single lug or a battened lug yawl — eliminate a snarl of “strings” to pull.

Early double-paddle canoes were classified according to their order of abilities: paddle, sail, cruise or race. Oughtred’s pair of canoes follows that convention. Given her longer waterline length and larger sail plan, the MacGregor is more of a sailer than her sister, but each of these canoes will perform capably with double paddle or sail, and is cruising, rather than racing craft.

Undecked line drawing of MacGregor canoe.

Build MacGregor undecked for lightweight or half-decked for big water.

The designer has specified scantlings for those who prefer conventional plank-on-frame, lapstrake construction (see WB Nos. 36 and 37). He has also provided offsets and stem patterns for building this boat at 15′ 8″ and 17′ 3″. The MacGregor Sail-Paddle Canoe design package includes five sheets of plans containing lines and offsets, two sail plans, plus mold and stem patterns showing plank lands. Additional items include a comprehensive materials list and the 14-page illustrated text on building procedures (WB Plan No. 80).

Completed 13′ 7″ MacGregor Sail-Paddle Canoe Image

Sailor wearing tan sun hat pilots a green MacGregor sail-paddle canoe on the water.

While larger than the Wee Rob, Iain Oughtred’s MacGregor canoe is still a bit smaller than many first-generation boats of this type.

9′ 6″ Martha’s Tender

The Martha’s Tender is a particularly well-proven design because so many boats have been built from it over the years. Both fishermen and yachtsmen have found what they were after in these boats: robust carrying capacity, reasonably light weight, and reasonable initial cost. With its firm bilges and a full-length outer keel, people have found through experience that this is not a boat to scoot out from under them while stepping aboard. They’ve also found that she tows well and doesn’t become a liability in a following sea.

Particulars and line drawings for Martha's Tender design plans.

Martha’s Tender Particulars

 

WoodenBoat has been partial to this design for some time, and upon establishing its summer boatbuilding school in 1980, arranged to teach the building of Martha’s Tender as one of its courses. From this experience, we have learned how quickly a beginner can build such a boat; the class averaged about one ready-to-be-painted boat for every two students each week with capable instruction, of course. Working alone, you’d no doubt take longer, except that you’re not really alone; a photo essay on building Martha’s Tender, featured in WB Nos. 45, 46, and 47, provides very complete and well-illustrated building instructions. By following them, you’ll be guided through each step of the process, and you’ll find it’s the next best thing to attending the WoodenBoat School.

Drawings of half breadths and profile for Martha's Tender

Martha’s Tender Plan of Half Breadths and Profile

This V-bottomed plywood tender can be constructed from readily available materials. Her design was developed to make use of 10′-long panels of plywood. But if more length is desired, longer panels can be made up, and the building molds can be spaced out for a hull as long as 14′. The hull is built upside down over a temporary jig, making the usual sawn frames unnecessary and keeping the interior of the finished boat free from much of the structural clutter. Inside, she’s fitted with three thwarts and two rowing stations. Outside, the hull is sheathed with fiberglass over its fir plywood planking for extra abrasion resistance and for a good surface for painting. Her transom can be notched for sculling, and she could even be fitted with a sailing rig and centerboard.

Plans for Martha’s Tender come in four sheets, which include lines and offsets, construction, sailing rig, and jig detail. WB Plan No. 25. $45.00. Originally, this was a three-sheet set of plans, but a sailing rig was added. So, the fourth sheet includes spars, sail, tiller, rudder and trunk. You can always use the Shellback Dinghy book if you want to know how to build spars.

Body plan and section drawings for Martha's Tender design

Martha’s Tender Body Plan and Section Drawings

Additional Reading

For more details on the plans for building Martha’s Tender, as well as a step-by-step how-to on constructing a sail for her, purchase a digital copy of the Build-a-Boat guide.

Plan 25

DESCRIPTION
Hull type: V-bottomed
Rig: None yet
Construction: Plywood

PERFORMANCE
Suitable for: Protected waters
Intended capacity: 3
Trailerable: Yes
Propulsion: Oars, sail
Speed (knots): 1-3

BUILDING DATA
Skill needed: Basic
Lofting required: No

Featured as “How to Build” article in WB Nos. 45, 46, 47

PLANS DATA
No. of sheets: 4
Level of detail: Average
Cost per set: $45.00
WB Plan No. 25

Finished 9’6″ Martha’s Tender Images

Color photo of blue rowboat sitting on a dock.Matthew P. Murphy

A completed Martha’s Tender

Woman installing a red sail on a blue rowboat.Matthew P. Murphy

The sail for Martha’s Tender can also be installed in Joel White’s Shellback Dinghy.

12′ 10″ Pooduck Skiff

It’s a pity that so many people seem to think a dinghy should be a tiny boat. A bigger boat will almost always be easier and faster to row, carry a bigger load, and be more seaworthy. Of course, this holds true for any small boat: bigger is usually better, up to a point. For most small-boat users, that point comes when two people can no longer lug the boat around.

Pooduck particulars.

Joel White’s Pooduck Skiff is a big little boat about as large as two average people would want to carry on shore. As a big sister to the 11’2″ Shellback Dinghy, she has a lot of the same great qualities: excellent rowing and sailing ability, easy construction, and mannerly tow­ing habits. But you’ll be surprised at how much bigger she is. At 12’10” LOA with 4’6″ beam, she’ll easily carry an extra person or two. And when the weather looks questionable, you’ll be glad for her extra size. Her scantlings are ruggedly reassuring as well she’ll be able to take her share of knocks.

As befits her big-sister status, Pooduck sports a grown­up rig: at the captain’s discretion, a jib can be added to her lug rig, to provide a little extra speed or just to keep the crew happily busy.

Construction profile (top), body plans (middle) and midship section (lower right).

The first-time builder can, with some effort, make a fine boat from these very complete plans. If a little extra guidance is desired, the 53-page monograph How to Build the Shellback Dinghy will prove almost as helpful for Pooduck as for her little sister.

General arrangement plan.

Plans for the Pooduck Skiff are printed on six sheets, including lines, con­struction, full-sized patterns for molds, stem and transom, and plank layouts. WB Plan No. 102, $75.00.

Plan 102
DESCRIPTION
Hull type: Multi-chine/lapstrake dory-skiff
Rig: Standing lug
Construction: Glued-lapstrake plywood

PERFORMANCE
* Suitable for: Protected waters
* Intended capacity: 1-4
Trailerable: Yes
Propulsion: Sail, oars

BUILDING DATA
Skill needed: Basic to intermediate
Lofting required: No
Helpful information: How to Build the Shellback Dinghy

Alternative construction: Traditional lapstrake

PLANS DATA
No. of sheets: 6
Level of detail: Above average
Cost per set: $75.00
WB Plan No. 102

Completed 12’10” Pooduck Skiff Images

While this skiff has a single rowing station, the plans call for a second station at the thwart that serves as the mast partners.Thomas Guertin

While this skiff has a single rowing station, the plans call for a second station at the thwart that serves as the mast partners.

When taking the helm, sitting on the bottom is the most convenient position. Floorboards make that a more comfortable option when some water gets aboard.Pam Payson

When taking the helm, sitting on the bottom is the most convenient position. Floorboards make that a more comfortable option when some water gets aboard.

19′ 6″ Caledonia Yawl

Designer Iain Oughtred is known for applying an artist’s touch to his light lapstrake creations. He admits to having been under the influence of Shetland ness yoles and sixerns while drawing this handsome double-ender.

Particulars

The Caledonia Yawl has relatively high ends and shows con­siderable reserve buoyancy above the waterline through­out its length. The hull lines resemble those of many surfboats that have evolved to meet the rigors of working off exposed beaches. Oughtred gave her a run that is finer and shows more deadrise than might be ideal for extremely high speed under sail, but the resulting gains in helm bal­ance and civilized behavior in waves make the compro­mise worthwhile.

Caledonia’s builders can rig their boats with either balanced lug or high-peaked gaffheaded mainsails. The balanced lug has the advantage of being self-vanging and simple. It sets on an unstayed mast, and it requires less time for raising and striking than does the gaff rig.

Plans

Caledonia’s lapstrake and epoxy hull is built in an inverted position. The backbone and building jig are fairly conventional. Drywall screws clamp the plywood strakes together until the epoxy sets. (Lack of cross-grain strength makes solid timber unsuitable for planking this boat.)

As for accommodations, Oughtred shows a version with considerable built-in closed space (similar to a Drascombe Lugger‘s interior) and a more open model. The open boat will be simpler and lighter, but builders can choose various combinations of the two layouts. In all cases, the decks are kept below the rails. This arrangement gives better access to the yawl’s ends, and it permits secure on-deck stowage of light gear. Also, the sunken decks allow your eyes to follow the full, unbroken sweep of the sheer from stem to stern-and a lovely sheer it is.

Plans

Plans for the Caledonia Yawl consist of eight sheets: hull lines, construction, mold patterns, stem and stern­post patterns, and sail plans. Also included are three sheets of specifications and 13 pages of lapstrake-plywood build­ing instructions. WB Plan No. 103, $291.00.

What Is Glued Lapstrake?

The glued lapstrake boatbuilding technique uses epoxy rather than mechanical fastenings to secure plank overlaps. This makes for a very strong hull and an exceptionally clean interior. Glued lapstrake has become a popular construction method for small sailing dinghies, rowing boats and canoes.

There are plenty of benefits to glued lapstrake construction. The resulting product is lightweight, rigid and excellently sealed against water and weather. The downside is major repairs will be difficult. And for anything larger than 10 feet, the marine plywood used for planking needs to be scarfed.

Read this article for more on glued lapstrake and five other ways to build a wooden boat.

Completed 19′ 6″ Caledonia Yawl Images

Christopher Cunningham

Drew’s work on the boat has put her back to rights and, as BONNIE LASS, she has much to offer to her new family in the years, if not decades, to come.

Courtesy of Peter Mumford

When Peter Mumford sailed ERIKA, she her mainsail was a standing lug. It was later replaced with a balance lug. The Caledonia Yawls that followed carried a balance-lug main, which had a boom that increased the spread of the sail for better performance off the wind.

Caledonia yawl's simple lug rig makes it easy to learn to sailLeni Danner

The Caledonia Yawl’s well mannered hull and simple lug rig made it easy for us to learn how to sail.

SPARROW sits at the entrance to the lagoon.Jim Danner

SPARROW sits at the entrance to the lagoon.

Caledonia Yawl

With well-balanced, relatively high ends, this lean and long yawl shows considerable reserve buoyancy above the waterline throughout her length. Check out our own Caledonia Yawl, SWIFTY, built right here at the WoodenBoat School.

A Rainy Sunday Afternoon

Yesterday morning, while I was in the busiest part of putting this issue together, I got an alert on my iMac telling me that my average daily screen time had increased. My computer had never expressed any concern for my wellbeing, so I couldn’t dismiss it as a worrywart. To be sure, in the past two weeks I had been spending a lot of time in my study and of late hadn’t been feeling myself but logy and more forgetful than usual. I logged off, loaded my coracle and a bit of gear into the truck, and headed for the nearest body of water, less than a mile to the east of home.

With my paddle, umbrella, and camera tripod bungeed to the thwart and the rest of my gear in a sling tote, I made the 100-yard portage in a single carry. The coracle goes overhead, upside down, with the thwart resting across my back and shoulders.

I hadn’t paddled my coracle since I’d tested it with a temporary skin two-and-a-half years ago and now its hull, as rounded as a walnut shell half, slipped away from me every time I stepped in it with the least bit of weight. When I did get myself planted on the thwart, it felt like sitting on an exercise ball, and my hips were in constant motion maintaining balance. There was a bit of a breeze, barely enough to quiver the slender leaves of the willows lining the shore, and the ripples on the lake were too smooth to darken the zinc-gray water.

A light rain was falling as I sculled away from shore and, where the drops fell, the rings made by their impact expanded and wove themselves into the rings of other drops, covering the surface with an ever-changing chainmail pattern. The island I was headed for, the only one on the lake, was only 150 yards from the beach, but I took a meandering course to its shore, an overhang of burnt-umber mud and exposed ebon-hued roots.

The crossing to the island was a short one, just 150 yards from the launch site on the lakeshore visible in the distance.

I’d brought lunch and backed away from the island to float in its lee while I ate. Putting up the umbrella and taking my sou’wester off changed the sound of the rain. The muffled pattering on the hat’s soft waxed canvas was replaced by a staccato tapping as sharp as fingertip snaps of static electricity. The curve of the umbrella surrounded me with rain’s music, a sound that can capture my full attention and push aside thinking as surely as gazing into the flickering flames of a campfire.

Drifting in the lee of the island, I had a quick indulgent lunch: a deli sandwich, a can of ginger ale, and a chocolate truffle.

My iMac was right to caution me about accumulating screen time. Sitting in one place focused on the same thing for hours on end day after day dulls the senses and the connection they create to whatever is around us. In psychology, that’s referred to as sensory adaptation, the process by which we become less sensitive to constant stimuli. It is not without benefit. To get constructive work done, it helps to insulate ourselves from distractions. And it happens without our knowing it. My refrigerator makes a humming noise while it’s running. I’m often unaware of it until the instant it stops. What I hear is the absence of the noise. I have tinnitus and, fortunately, that unending whine slips from my consciousness most of the time. Similarly, I’m unaware of the taste of my own mouth or the scent of my own breath. It’s not so easy to experience vision lost to sensory adaptation, but I’ve done it a few times by lying in bed motionless and staring at the light fixture on the ceiling. If I can keep from shifting my eyes, I can make it disappear into gray.

The screen time isn’t just about the time looking at computer-generated images. It’s what happens to the other senses and the potential of their growing dull with disuse. Boating, especially in a small open boat, can be an effective remedy. The five senses, six when you include the proprioceptive sense, are all heightened by surroundings that are never the same from one moment to the next.

The umbrella made a surprisingly effective downwind sail and could pull the coracle faster than I could paddle it. (Time lapse photo)

When I left the island to head back to the launch site, I paddled out of the lee into the wind and lowered my open umbrella. As it caught the wind, I held the paddle over the starboard side to serve as a skeg and point the coracle in the right direction. As I approached the shore, a gust diverted by the trees and brush spun the coracle around like a teacup ride in an amusement park. I was ready to face the screen again.

Waterlust Sailing Canoe

The Waterlust sailing canoe designed by Dillon Majoros of Chesapeake Light Craft (CLC) is a 17′ decked sailing canoe designed for “high-performance expedition cruising.” It was developed in 2016 in partnership with Waterlust, a group of environmentally focused scientists, for a journey along the Intracoastal Waterway. It has a choice of rigs, and the option of a Hobie MirageDrive for auxiliary power.

I fell in love with the graceful sheer and reasoned that the boat was not so big, and I would not have invested too much time, money, and energy if I found out that either I was not the boatbuilder I had hoped I might be, or that the boat was not right for me. The boat did turn out to be the right one, and the sheer still gets me every time.

The boat is available as either kit or plans from CLC or their partners around the globe, as part of their Pro-Kits range, which is aimed at people who have some degree of competence with epoxy-plywood construction. I sourced my kit and instruction booklet from Fyne Boat Kits in the U.K. The kit contained precut plywood parts, resin, ’glass, and most of the hardwood required machined to the right dimensions, with precut puzzle joints—just what a builder needs to make rapid progress. Sails and hardware can also be provided, although I sourced mine elsewhere. This was my first build, but it went together very easily, and the 28-page instruction booklet is well illustrated, clear, and easy to follow. The few questions that I had were quickly addressed either by Fyne or CLC.

Photographs by the author

The cockpit extends beneath the aft deck and can be used as a berth for the crew. Forward of the centerboard built-in compartments to both port and starboard give accessible, dry stowage space, and in the canoe’s ends watertight compartments provide excellent flotation.

The construction is typical for a modern kit boat, with hull planks and frames being stitched together, then bonded with thickened epoxy, and the resulting structure reinforced with ’glass cloth. I was astonished by the precision of the cutting—all the predrilled holes for the stitches lined up perfectly, and the LapStitch hull came together quickly and easily. My kit arrived in early March 2020, and the hull was ready to launch in late May.

Even during the build, it became apparent that the Waterlust is a substantial canoe. With a beam of 36″ and full ends, the hull’s load-carrying potential becomes clear as soon as the last planks are stitched to the bulkheads.

There is a watertight compartment built into each end, and forward of the cockpit is a large storage locker accessed through a watertight hatch cut out from the deck. The deck is supported by a combination of the plywood frames, bulkheads, and carlins. I added two additional deckbeams fore and aft of the hatch opening, strengthening this area to support sitting on the deck.

In the forward part of the cockpit is the slot for the daggerboard, and the well for the drop-in MirageDrive. We opted to use paddles for auxiliary power and to use the well, with the hull left intact at the bottom, as an additional storage locker. The main cockpit area is large and divided by the longitudinal stringers that provide strength to the hull. The spaces to the outside of the stringers provide convenient open-top storage areas and keep loose items handy but out from underfoot. Between the stringers, the center cockpit space extends unimpeded under the aft deck, creating a 35″-long space for more storage. As this is open to the cockpit there is more chance things stored here will get wet, so I use dry bags or sealed plastic boxes in this space; when cleared, it is large enough for sleeping. I have not tried sleeping on board but know others who have with success.

The amas increase the canoe’s buoyancy by 70 lbs on each side and offer yet more options: on windy days the canoe can be sailed with full rig, while on less windy but gusty days they provide stability for a more relaxing sail. A single-blade paddle is useful auxiliary power in a difficult turn or very light airs.

A suggested hardware layout is provided in the construction manual, and I used this with minor modifications. My spars are all solid wood, as suggested in the plans. A hollow mainmast may be advantageous to reduce weight aloft, with the caveat that a standing lug benefits from a stiff mast, so a hollow one must be sufficiently stiff to handle the high loads needed to flatten the sail as the wind picks up.

Steering is with a push-pull Scandinavian-style tiller attached to a yoke fixed to the head of the rudder. I have found this to work quite well. It is necessary to tie the tiller into the boat: if the tiller is dropped into the water untethered, it is quite an exercise to get it back while underway as it will be dragging behind the boat! I have also added a simple tiller tender, which I find very useful as it enables hands-free sailing for short periods.

The hull is both elegant and strong. I have dropped my Waterlust off a dolly onto concrete, and it appears none the worse for it. The ’glass-and-epoxy coating is very wear-resistant, which is useful on a boat meant for hauling-out on beaches. According to the specs, the fully rigged canoe should weigh about 115 lbs. I have not weighed mine, but I routinely walk about 800 yards to my launching beach with her on a dolly. I cannot, however, lift her onto a car roof without assistance of some kind.

An outrigger package is also available, and is put together in much the same way as the main hull. The crossbeam (or aka), which is laminated from four layers of 9mm ply, is reassuringly substantial. The outriggers are attached by lashing the crossbeam to mounting points fixed to the main hull and then bolting the floats or amas to the crossbeam. Each ama provides 70 lbs of buoyancy, which makes it possible to power-up the rig or simply have a more relaxing sail in gusty conditions. The amas touch the water at about 8 degrees of heel and, when the boat is flat, cause no drag at all as both sit clear of the water.

Courtesy of Chesapeake Light Craft

A custom cane-back cockpit seat is the perfect addition for an easy sail in the gentle breeze of a late afternoon. The push-pull tiller and shorter balance-lug boom allow the skipper to sit facing forward and upright, while the Hobie MirageDrive provides some welcome auxiliary pedal power.

The whole package of outriggers and crossbeam weighs in at 27 lbs and is cleverly designed with storage in mind. The amas fit neatly inside the cockpit, and the aka, when lashed to the deck for storage, does not extend beyond the perimeter of the hull. This is very neat and a testament to the thoughtfulness and attention to detail of the designers, as it makes the package exceptionally easy to live with off the water, as well as on.

One of the great pleasures of sailing a canoe of this type is that it can be sailed from a seat, facing forward. I use a folding cane seat, which was recommended by Phil at Fyne Boat Kits, and I have been delighted with the choice. Although not officially part of the kit, this seat is the one shown in the illustrations in the CLC build manual. The height of the seat is important: it should be low for sailing, but I find it needs raising a little when paddling to allow me to get the blades comfortably in the water without hitting the gunwales. Although nothing is suggested in the build manual, two quickly removable wooden beams resting on the longitudinal stringers have proven to be an effective solution.

At its simplest, the Waterlust can be used as a canoe, powered by a drop-in MirageDrive, or a double-bladed or single-bladed paddle. I have opted for the paddles as I prioritize sailing over other forms of power, but I understand that the MirageDrive option works well, too, and can propel the boat at hull speed—over 6 knots has been measured. The plans also suggest that a sliding-seat rowing unit with outriggers could be installed.

For passagemaking under paddle, I raise the rudder, take out the daggerboard, and apply myself to my 240cm-long double-bladed paddle, which gives me a good reach over the relatively wide deck. With a loaded boat and no wind, I can comfortably cruise at 2 knots all day. As a canoe the Waterlust is stable when boarding and underway. It is comfortable and there is plenty of space to find a good sitting position. It’s no problem to stow the paddle, sit and enjoy the view, dig around to find the camera, or pour a cup of tea. This stable, beamy hull is well-suited as a platform for exploring or birdwatching: take the time to enjoy going slowly, and you will be rewarded.

A surprisingly versatile craft for one so small, the Waterlust canoe is equally suited to sailing or paddling.

There are two maststeps forward for the 11′ 4″ mainmast, and one aft for the 6′ 10″ mizzen. The Waterlust can be sailed either with the main alone, a balanced lugsail of 62 sq ft set in the aft main maststep, or with the main set in the forward maststep and the 18-sq-ft mizzen added, taking the sail area up to 80 sq ft.

Handling the boat on land is a one-person job, though some may need help (or ingenuity) if the boat is to be transported on a car roof. For rigging I have found it best to get the hull in the water, or ideally drawn up on a beach where it will sit solidly on her flat bottom. The masts simply drop into their steps, then sails and daggerboard and rudder are made ready. This whole exercise takes me about 20 minutes, 10 minutes more if the outriggers are to be used. If using the outriggers, a beach is a much easier proposition than a pontoon or floating dock, as the outriggers get in the way and make tying to the dock a bit tricky.

The character of the Waterlust canoe under sail varies considerably depending on the choice of sails—main only or main plus mizzen—and whether the outriggers are deployed. Under main and mizzen and without the outriggers the Waterlust is a sporty proposition, and rapid reactions to changes in wind speed are called for. The sail area is slightly larger than that of a full-rigged Laser, and on a hull with a beam of 36″ (compared with the Laser’s 55″) hiking out as the wind strengthens is necessary to keep upright. When the wind pipes up, I find the sailing experience almost closer to windsurfing than dinghy sailing as one has a very immediate connection between the power in the sail and the counterbalancing weight of the skipper. While the rig can easily be matched to a steady breeze, rapid changes in wind strength are the main challenge. A capsize to windward if the wind drops suddenly is more likely than a capsize to leeward in a gust. It’s a lot of fun, though while gaining experience it would probably be best enjoyed with an empty boat in warm water. The addition of ballast has a marked calming effect; the canoe is an expedition boat, designed with carrying cruising gear in mind, and behaves well when loaded.

Courtesy of Chesapeake Light Craft

With its full decks, lapstrake hull, and split lug rig (technically a ketch but with the appearance of a yawl), the Waterlust harks back to the sailing canoes of the 19th century.

The outriggers are described by CLC as “training wheels to help keep the boat upright in gusty conditions” and do not convert the canoe into a fully fledged trimaran. Even so, the difference in character is substantial, and the sailing experience with the outriggers is more relaxing. The 70 lbs of buoyancy from each ama has a great impact on secondary stability, and the skipper can enjoy the best of canoe sailing safe in the knowledge the boat will stay right-side up under all but the most extreme situations. With the outriggers mounted, the Waterlust shows the best of itself as a well-thought-out cruising machine. When the canoe is being paddled, the amas are above the water and don’t add drag. When the wind fills in, the leeward outrigger gently limits the heel, with the righting force increasing as the ama is forced deeper into the water.

Tacking and jibing are straightforward with or without the outriggers, but it is important to enter a tack with sufficient speed to avoid being caught in irons. The remedy, if required, is a stroke or two with a paddle, and this is quickly done if the paddle is accessible. The use of auxiliary power when sailing is a great plus of this design, and either a single-bladed paddle or the MirageDrive serves well for this purpose. If beating in light airs to get round a headland to windward, I can pinch slightly and start paddling; this “paddle sailing” can be effective and perhaps avoid a tack or two.

Under sail with the outriggers mounted, the Waterlust skipper is free to enjoy the surroundings, and operations such as reefing, pouring coffee from a thermos, or looking at a chart are straightforward. I have even broken the golden rule of canoe sailing: never cleat the mainsheet. In the right conditions, I can make the mainsheet fast to the cleat I installed on the after face of the daggerboard case, engage a tiller tender to fix the rudder, and make long tacks with the canoe sailing itself.

For passagemaking, I plan for around 2 knots made good over the day, slightly faster with a fair wind. In a good following breeze of Force 3 or more, an average of well over 4 knots can be maintained for many hours. When sailing in company over an extended period, I found the Waterlust well-matched with a Welsford Navigator, and noticeably quicker than a Drascombe Lugger.

The Waterlust sails well under just the mainsail so the skipper has many options depending on the strength of wind.

The long hull is directionally stable and very forgiving with little tendency to broach even with a following sea. When significantly overpowered off the wind, the Waterlust remains remarkably docile and any tendency to roll is quickly dampened by the outriggers. The hull is easily driven, so reefing early does little to harm progress while making for a more comfortable ride. The deck protects the cockpit well, and I usually remain dry unless beating into a chop.

The Waterlust epitomizes the small-boat advantage: it is quick to build, easy to store, and light enough for one to handle alone. Because of its small size, all the hardware, sails, and spars are smaller, lighter, and less expensive than for a larger boat. It is a remarkably capable and, in my mind, elegant vessel.

The type is adaptable, and very much what you want to make of it: it can be a fast and exciting daysailer, a seaworthy expedition boat, or a platform for exploring. I know that many owners have adapted their Waterlust canoes to suit their own needs. Some make arrangements for a crew of two; others add ballast and reduce the sail area to make for more relaxed sailing without adding the outrigger package. I have stuck close to the standard package, usually using the outriggers and full rig, but I sometimes press my Waterlust into service as a paddling canoe with three or more kids on board, and it takes it all in stride.

Guy Hall lives and sails on the west coast of Norway, near Bergen. In his youth he sailed extensively in the waters around the U.K. in boats large and small. His Waterlust canoe, christened SVALE, represents a first step back on the water after a career-induced break, and a way of introducing the next generation to the joys of small boats. He is a member of the Dinghy Cruising Association.

Waterlust Particulars

LOA   17′
Beam   36″
Draft   4″
Draft, board down   32″
Hull weight 115 lbs
Sail area, lug yawl   80 sq ft
Sail area, cat-rigged   62 sq ft
Maximum payload   400 lbs

 

The Waterlust Sailing Canoe is available from Chesapeake Light Craft as basic hull kit for $1,730. The sailing component kit is priced at $1,545, and the outrigger base kit at $598.

Building the Waterlust Sailing Canoe by Martin Cartwright is a 90-page book about what he, Guy Hall, and Stephen P. Clark learned while building their Waterlust canoes. It is available from Amazon for $18.85.

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats readers would enjoy? Please email us your suggestions.

The Scout 10

When I first saw the Scout 10, pulled up on the beach with its sail luffing, I quickly took a liking to it not for something I saw but rather for the absence of something: a trunk for the daggerboard. In most sailing skiffs, a trunk for a daggerboard or centerboard usually occupies some very valuable space in the cockpit. Neither board cares all that much where it is in the boat so long as it balances the sail rig above it. The polite thing for either one to do is scoot a bit to port or starboard and get out of the way of the crew. I’ve built three boats with offset boards and none of them has a detectable difference between port and starboard tacks.

The other feature that drew me to the Scout 10 was the use of slip thwarts that can be set on the parallel edges of the side benches anywhere in the cockpit and removed when not needed. I incorporated the same arrangement in my two beach cruisers.

Duckworks

The slip thwarts can be placed anywhere between the side benches. Removing them opens a long unobstructed footwell that can be used for a berth.

The Scout 10 was developed in Port Townsend, Washington, by Duckworks and Turn Point Design. Their goal was to create “the smallest possible camp-cruising sailboat.” It had to be light enough for cartopping, have plenty of built-in flotation, be easy to rig, sail and row well, have ample dry storage, and be roomy enough to sleep aboard. They squeezed everything into a 10-footer with a 52″ beam. Its weight was kept down around 70 lbs with the use of ’glassed closed-cell foam in lieu of plywood for several structural elements.

The boat is available from Duckworks in kit form. The plywood and foam pieces are CNC-cut and have puzzle joints where they are required to assemble full-length pieces. The rudder and daggerboard are made of foam, cut to precise foil sections that require only finish-sanding and sheathing with ’glass and epoxy. A 120-page manual details every step of the construction with clear instructions, drawings, and photographs.

Christopher Cunningham

The kick-up rudder blade, with its CNC-carved foil shape, has a bungee to hold it in the down position while sailing.

The first step in the Scout 10’s construction is to make a flat work surface for assembling, gluing, and fiberglassing the foam and plywood panels. The table consists of two sheets of 3⁄4″ melamine-faced particleboard supported by three straight 2×4s spanning three sawhorses. The surface is leveled and coated with mold release or paste wax. The preparation ensures that all the pieces are flat and take fair curves during the assembly of the boat. The pieces are temporarily joined with zip ties in predrilled holes. Tabs on the interior structural piece fit into notches in the hull to make them self-positioning.

The bottom and first two strakes are joined in the typical stitch-and-glue fashion. The bottom of the sheerstrake is lapstrake and casts a shadow that provides a nice accent to the curves of the hull.

Christopher Cunningham

A loop of bungee cord around the daggerboard allows it to be easily adjusted and holds it in place whether up or down. This seat, positioned for the rower, is one of two. The other seat would be set aft with its angled flange facing the rower to serve as a foot brace.

The inwale is made strong and light by boxing-in a foam core with plywood. There are 5⁄8″ holes predrilled in the plywood top and bottom pieces and after the gunwale is assembled the builder will drill through the foam in between. Phenolic tubes with a 1⁄2″ inside diameter inserted into the holes, epoxied in place, will accept the 1⁄2″ shanks of standard oarlocks or, as was the case in the boat I rowed, Gaco oarlocks with the adapter sleeves. The lined holes also provide soft-shackle attachment points for the mainsheet blocks and ends and can be used to anchor arched supports for a cover or canopy.

The deck, which is composed of the foredeck and side benches, is made of 1⁄4″ closed-cell foam ’glassed on both sides prior to its installation. A slot in the deck on its starboard side provides the opening for the daggerboard trunk, which is built on the side of the footwell bulkhead that is enclosed and concealed beneath the bench. During the time I was rowing and sailing the Scout 10, I was unaware of the foam used in its construction and assumed the benches were plywood and ’glass. They felt every bit as solid.

Christopher Cunningham

The Scout 10 is a good size for young families with kids eager to learn to sail and row.

The movable/removable seats are more complex than slip thwarts made from straight pieces of lumber. The seat top, which is set below the level of the side benches, provides good clearance for rowing and requires some bridge-like engineering to make the 4mm plywood a solid platform. One of the flanges that provides the strength is oversized and angled outward and serves as a foot brace for the rower. Both seats are equipped with devices that clamp on the side-bench flange to keep them from slipping out of position whether serving the rower as the seat or foot brace.

Christopher Cunningham

A 10″ hatch provides access to a large airtight compartment in the bow. The halyard and a powerful downhaul are both anchored on the mast so the whole rig can be dropped almost instantly. The mast has a core of carbon fiber and a silvery, abrasion-resistant outer layer of Texalium, a fiberglass cloth with an aluminum coating.

The footwell is 20 3⁄8″ × 81 1⁄2″ long and unimpeded by the daggerboard trunk so it can be used as a place to sleep although the manual cautions that it is “not a luxurious berth.” Its width is a perfect match for my 20″ × 72″ self-inflating sleeping pad. I’m 6′ tall and a side sleeper and can tuck my knees up at a comfortable angle and, if I set my back to one side, I have room for my elbows on the other side. For stargazing while lying on my back, I’d have room for my shoulders, but my elbows would have to be someplace other than at my side. Even so, as a quickly made nest, it would be welcomed by a tired cruiser for a midday rest or overnight sleep. Duckworks suggests using “a cloth, hammock or filler boards over the footwell to create a double bunk.” On three of my camp-cruisers, I’ve used the same approach and made floorboard panels that can be raised to cover the footwells. The sleeping surface provided by the hull’s flat bottom, by the way, allows the Scout 10 to sit upright on the beach.

Collection of the author

The Scout 10 comes up to speed quickly and is a pleasure to row.

The enclosed spaces under the deck can be equipped with watertight hatches. The Scout 10 I rowed and sailed had been equipped with the three round watertight hatches—two 8″ and one 10″—that Duckworks offers in its kits for the Scout. For easier access to cruising gear, I’d consider the larger rectangular 10″ × 14″ Sealect hatches that are recommended in the manual as an option.

The 58-sq-ft sail has a sleeved luff and slips over a two-piece tapered carbon-fiber mast. There is no boom, so the rig is simple to set up. The sail has four battens. The top one supports a squared-off head, which adds sail area, and the other three shape the sail and maintain its spread on a downwind run. The rudder has a pivoting blade held down with a bungee and retracted for beaching by an uphaul with a jam cleat. While the rudder will kick up if it touches bottom in a shoal, the daggerboard must be raised by hand. A bungee looped around it holds it in position whether raised or lowered.

Collection of the author

In the quick turn here, the stern snaps smartly around. The transom has two handholds for getting a sure grip for dragging or carrying the boat and also has a notch for sculling.

The Scout 10, with the sailing rig left off and just me aboard, is a bit tender but the firm secondary stability kicks in readily. I settled in quickly and enjoyed the boat’s lively, responsive feel. I could spin it through 360 degrees with just five-and-a-half strokes and make crisp turns with a harder pull on one of the oars. The boat trimmed well, with the bottom of the transom just touching the water. The skeg, fully immersed, did its duty, keeping the boat from wandering off course. The wide range of options for the placement of the seat and the oarlocks would make it easy to adjust the trim to accommodate the load and even tune the trim for upwind or downwind rowing. With a GPS measuring my speed, I maintained 3 knots with a relaxed effort and 3 3⁄4 knots at a moderate workout pace. Rowing all out, I could get the Scout 10 up to 4 1⁄4 knots. With a passenger aboard, I moved the seat to the forward end of the footwell and relocated the oarlocks to the appropriate holes in the gunwale. The measured speeds, respectively, were 2 3⁄4, 3 1⁄4, and 3 1⁄2 knots. The additional weight in the boat also nicely firmed up its initial stability.

Christopher Cunningham

The 14′ mast weighs just 5.2 lbs and breaks down in two pieces for easy stowing on board. The uppermost of the four battens supports a bit of extra sail area up high.

Rigged for sail, the Scout 10 was easy to manage. The sheet is led through a small block at the clew, through blocks at each stern quarter, and forward along both gunwales to another pair of blocks; it ends in stopper knots. The system allows the skipper to sit facing forward, with one hand on the tiller, and the other taking hold of the sheet by its leeward stopper knot. The boat was well behaved in the light and occasionally fluky winds I had and absorbed the puffs without requiring me to respond dramatically. The hull carried its speed well enough to get through tacks without getting caught in irons. On the new tack, the battens were limber enough to snap to the new leeward side without requiring a sharp tug on the sheet.

Christopher Cunningham

The Scout 10’s 58-sq-ft sail is boomless so an accidental jibe is forgiving to a crew caught off guard.

I didn’t do a capsize drill with the Scout 10, but Small Boats reader Daniel Patterson did. In his video we can see the boat coming to rest on its beam ends, prevented by the mast from turning turtle. The airtight storage compartments float the footwell above water level and when the boat is righted, the only water in the bottom is what is scooped up in the angle between the side bench and the sheer and that’s not enough to affect stability or even require bailing before getting underway again. The built-in flotation also provides support for crawling over the gunwale to get back aboard.

Common wisdom is that the size of a boat is inversely proportional to the frequency of its use, and a boat as small, light, and as versatile as the Scout 10 is likely to lead a busy life. It can be made ready for the road in short order and can explore waterways near and far whether for a few hours or a few days.

Christopher Cunningham is the editor of Small Boats.

Scout 10 Particulars
LOA   10′ 4″
Beam   50″
Draft   4 1⁄2″
Sail area   58 sq ft
Capacity   2 to 3 people
Weight   65 to 75 lbs

The Scout 10 is available from Duckworks in kits ranging from the CNC kit of precut plywood and foam pieces for $2,099 to the complete package with the full sailing rig for $4,299.

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats readers would enjoy? Please email us your suggestions.

 

The Erie Canal by Canoe

After enduring three long pandemic years without any summer paddling trips, I had some surplus vacation time and set my sights to the Erie Canal, the 363-mile-long waterway that took eight years to carve across New York before it opened in 1825. Within three weeks I had planned my itinerary and organized my food. I was happy to see that all my gear and supplies fit in my 14′ 6″ composite solo canoe. While my guidebook for the Erie Canal had lots of useful information about its natural and manmade passages and the 35 locks, it offered little advice for a paddler needing to come ashore every night. I was unsure as to exactly where and how I would be able to camp each evening but, knowing that other canoeists had done this trip before, I’d figure it out.

I launched on July 15, 2023, from Eastern Park in Tonawanda, New York, and followed Ellicott Creek downstream to the west end of the Erie Canal where I turned right and headed east, following Tonawanda Creek, which serves as the westernmost 11 miles of the canal. Still air and overcast skies meant good paddling weather, and I was eager to cover some miles before the heat of the afternoon and the forecast rain arrived. Even though there was little boat traffic, I paddled close to the side, gliding under overhanging branches and around numerous piers and docked boats. Hanging from the limb of a white poplar tree, half concealed by its leaves, was a bald-faced hornet nest, as big as a basketball and just above eye level. I spotted it just in time; it wasn’t the kind of adventure I wanted for the trip.

Roger Siebert

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I paddled 11 miles of Tonawanda Creek’s serpentine curves to a fork where that natural waterway headed east, and the manmade canal headed north in elongated bends. I reached the first of 19 guard gates, paired steel hanging barriers, each 60′ wide by 20′ tall, which can be lowered to block the canal completely to protect it from floods or breaches. The gate was open and I paddled through to start a 3-mile stretch of the canal that was so straight I couldn’t see the turn at its end, only the notch in the horizon where the canal disappeared.

In the town of Lockport, 18 miles from Eastern Park, I arrived at my first locks, numbered 35 and 34. Having never paddled through a lock before, I stopped at the side of the canal and waited as a 65′ double-decker tourist boat came out of the lock and passed me by. I approached the lock entrance where there was a small white control-house with the lockmaster, dressed casually, standing next to it. He pointed out the ropes that hung down the lock walls. I would need to pick one, he said, and hang onto it as the gates closed and the water lowered. I grabbed onto the wet, algae-covered rope and waited. The tourist boat, already on its way back after its stop just outside the lock, joined me in the chamber and tied up on the other side. The gates closed. As the water ebbed away, I let the rope slip through my hand as the lock walls rose around me. It took about 10 minutes for the water to fall and the lower gates to open; I followed the tour boat out of Lock 35 and into Lock 34 to repeat the process, and then followed the tour boat out the gates and down the canal.

Photographs by the author

When I first started east on the Erie Canal, it was calm and quiet but there was rain forecast for the afternoon and evening. There were many powerboats moored along the canal-side docks. As I paddled along one side, I wondered how busy the canal would turn out to be.

As I paddled away from Lockport, I was tired and began to look for a suitable place to camp. The canal sides were 3′-high riprap sloping up at a 30-degree angle, topped on the north side by a bicycle path and on the south side by a grassy access road. Trees, but little else, were visible above the canal sides. In the late afternoon, I pulled the canoe up the south bank onto the access road, which was flat and recently mown. I set my tent up off to one side of it, ate dinner, and settled in for the night.

It was a restless first night, listening to rain pattering on the tent, but at least the wet weather rescued me from having to rise early. By 6:30, a lull in the rain galvanized me into action. I lowered the boat into the canal, climbed carefully down the riprap, and headed out.

I paddled through Gasport and Middleport, each with a single steel-girder lift bridge so low I could reach up and touch them as I passed beneath. Gasport and Middleport had only high docks, so I didn’t stop, but Medina had a low one and I tied up to explore the town, eventually stopping at a small pastry shop. With scone in hand, I finished my wander around downtown and headed out.

Just beyond the Medina city limits I stopped where Bates Road crosses the canal near a boat ramp flanked by a grassy area with three picnic benches. I set up camp next to one, cooked dinner, and turned in for the night.

By 6 a.m. the next morning I was up and underway. The day ahead was to be one of long, straight stretches beneath high gray haze from the Canadian forest fires. Wildflowers were in bloom on the berms flanking the canal. I pulled ashore on the north side and climbed up to a view of agricultural fields and woodlands sweeping beneath the haze that hung low and obscured Lake Ontario 10 miles distant to the north.

Like all but one of the 19 guard gates on the canal, this first and westernmost one was open. The barrier gates can be lowered to isolate portions of the canal in the event of flooding. As I paddled by, I looked to see if there was a spot by the gate to camp. By the end of the trip, I had become very comfortable camping on canal property, but starting off I was unclear what was either possible or allowed.

I paddled on to the Sans Souci Park boat ramp and set up camp in an empty gazebo overlooking the canal. Two teenagers wandering the grassy field stopped to hang out with me; they were worried about me sleeping in the park where people driving by might see me. Toward dusk, they went on their way, and I was alone with only the frogs croaking in the adjacent wetlands to keep me company. Fireflies, flashing pale-green lights, traced the spaces between the dark trunks of the nearest trees.

It was barely 5:20 a.m. when I was up and breaking camp. Camping under the gazebo had kept the tent dry and made for easy packing. As the morning passed, clouds built and by the time I reached Spencerport, 11 gently winding miles to the east, both my paddle and my canoe were trying to veer off in the strengthening gusts. I tied up at the dock, took a shower in the visitor center, and headed to the grocery store. My timing was perfect—the blustery weather turned into a downpour just as I got back from the grocery store, so I sat on the visitor-center porch and watched the deluge. The storm passed in an hour, clearing the wildfire haze, and the sky was truly blue for the first time since the trip started.

I paddled on for 3 miles to Henpeck Park, but it was noisy with traffic rushing along an arterial to the east and rumbling across a pale-green girder bridge to the west. I backtracked a quarter mile to Greece Canal Park, which had a dock right on the canal. I clambered up and tied off the canoe to the weathered pilings. A mown grassy area led downhill into the park where I found a bathroom and washed some clothes in the sink. I set up my tent and ate dinner on the dock before turning in.

At 4 a.m. the following morning, I woke up groggy and shivering in my lightweight sleeping bag, annoyed that I had not pulled on my fleece the night before. I curled up and suffered through till I got moving a couple of hours later. As I packed up the tent, my lower back was smarting—weekend paddles hadn’t really prepared me for paddling every day.

I went through my first lock, Lock 36, with a tourist boat. I talked with the lockmaster on the way in and told him this was my first time through a lock. He took good care of me and talked me through the procedure. The tourist boat had come through while I was waiting to enter, but then just turned around to go right back, so I had to wait for a bit. I chatted with some of the tourists on the boat—for them I was part of the show. I was reluctant to mention that my plan was to paddle the length of the canal—I didn’t want to jinx it starting out.

After an hour, I reached the outskirts of Rochester, where the canal sides rose from eye level to 20′ or even 30′. What wasn’t vertical rock was near-vertical wooded slopes. Water trickling down traced lacy patterns over intricate layers of limestone, and streams spilled into the air out of pipe ends 20′ overhead; rope swings hung from a couple of the dozen highway and railroad bridges. Aside from one man fishing at a small platform, the canal felt isolated and quiet with little noise from the road bridges overhead—there wasn’t even much graffiti. The canal walls provided welcome shade till about 11, and I was grateful not to have to smear sunscreen on my face and wind up with a slippery grip on my paddle. While I was in that deep canyon, a boat powered by three massive black outboard engines roared by me without slowing down. The 2′-high waves in its wake threw me around as they ricocheted off the canal walls. As I neared the Genesee River the banks dropped, and I crossed the river junction in bright sunlight and pressed on against the first, albeit weak, opposing current of the trip.

A little over 5 miles from the river, I stopped at Lock 32 to camp in the canal-side strip of grass along the Erie Canal Trail, a 360-mile gravel path for hiking and cycling. I climbed out of the canoe onto an aluminum dock so hot with the afternoon sun that it stung my hands and knees. On the north side of the lock was a gazebo large enough to host a 100-person wedding, but only a solitary person sat at one of the picnic benches. There was no rain in the forecast, so I wouldn’t need the shelter of the gazebo, and I set my tent up by a picnic bench beneath the shade of an evergreen tree, conveniently limbed up to 6′.

I walked the towpath along an old canal channel that was long, straight, and filled with trees. Black raspberries grew thick on what would have been the canal bank, and I grazed as I walked. A little over a mile north of the lock, I found a Mexican restaurant and bought a burrito that contained more food than I could eat. I also stopped at a grocery store where I bought bread and fruit to see me through the next few days. I returned to the park and enjoyed not having to make dinner. At dusk the mosquitoes came to join me, and I was happy to leave them to it and retire for the night.

I had become accustomed to the hardness of the camping pad and, dressed in my fleece this time to stay warm, I slept well and woke the next morning refreshed and ready to transit the lock where I had camped.

By 10:30 the sun, heat, and humidity combined with the monotony of the long, straight stretches were taking their toll on me. A break for a snack revived me enough to make it to Lock 30 in Macedon where I stretched my legs strolling the mowed lawns before reboarding the canoe. I paddled another 3 miles to Lock 29 and just beyond it made camp in a gazebo at a Palmyra city park. The forecast had predicted rain, but it didn’t show up until bedtime, and when it did, it came with thunder, lightning, and gusts of wind that blew the rain horizontally. I was happy to have found the gazebo, but even so I watched with trepidation to see if the hard-packed gravel of the shelter would flood and force me up onto one of the picnic benches. Eventually I relaxed because all seemed to be staying dry, and I drifted off.

At the end of my first day, I stopped to camp just outside of Lockport. The top of the berm was flat and recently mown, and it had not yet started raining. I felt I couldn’t have done much better for my first camp.

The town of Palmyra is separated from the canal by a 100-yard-wide band of forest, and I paddled several mile-long straight stretches along hardwood woodlands to the outskirts of the Port Gibson area where the canal curved and widened to 1⁄8 mile. I took the inside of the bend along the northern shore’s thick woods and bypassed the town’s homes and docks. The canal narrowed again to its usual 120′ and brought me quickly to Newark. I moored up to the town dock and made a 20-minute walk to the nearest grocery store. My walk back was a race against gathering clouds. Just as the downpour started, I’d made it back to a covered picnic table and waited out the rain near the dock. When I headed out again, I paddled over several shallows where I was startled by the sudden thrashing about of schools of carp, disturbed by my paddle.

By evening, I was just beyond Lock 27 in Lyons and camped behind the fire station with a view overlooking the lock. My campsite was tucked away, but I realized too late that there were overhead bright streetlights and a block away customers in a restaurant were enjoying a loud Friday night happy hour. I turned in, pulling my fleece up over my head and eyes to block the light and noise.

I was up and paddling by 6:20, alone on the canal as it meandered through low-lying wetlands and forested banks interrupted only by remnants of an industrial past: a handful of massive abutments supporting nothing, and an abandoned five-story brick building the size of a city block. Three-and-a-half hours after setting out, I reached Clyde, and stopped for a break. There was a bathroom in the park by the landing, and I washed my clothes and put them back on still wet so they would cool me as they dried in the heat of the sun.

The canal turned south, merging with the straightened Clyde River. From time to time the old river splits away from the canal before merging to rejoin the canal farther downstream. Several times I went with the river and was pushed along by an occasional 1⁄2-mph current. For all but a few minutes I was alone with the canoe, the water, and the sky.

Soon I was back on the canal and through Lock 25. I landed on a slippery, muddy bank at the end of the lock wall and wound up on my backside twice as I carried my camping gear ashore.

I unloaded the canoe at the Bates Road Ramp, right by Guard Gate 15. The spot provided shade, a park bench, and someone to chat with. Like many of the sites along this part of the canal, the Erie Canal Bike Trail runs right by it; my impression was that the canal sees many more cyclists than boaters.

The next section of the canal stayed away from the small towns. During my stop for breakfast in the shade of the bridge to Haiti Island, swallows put on an air show chasing dragonflies.

My planned camp at Seneca River Fishing Access Point was shadeless, littered, and busy with fishermen. I poked up a winding stream in the nearby forest looking for a camping spot. The clear water and the shade of the lush vegetation were appealing, but a swarm of mosquitoes and muddy banks put me off. I ended up back along the canal on a dry but shaded mud bank. I tied the boat between shore and a tree branch overhanging the canal so boat wakes would not bounce the canoe off the bank.

I arose sleepy after a night of trains going by and fish splashing. Baldwinsville, 14 winding miles away, was my goal for the day.

When I reached the town, I came ashore at a park and set up in the empty picnic shelter. The park was busier than many, with a softball game and a couple of people to chat with while I set up camp. I’d had no access to grocery stores during the day, so dinner was dehydrated backpacking food.

Settled in the gazebo at San Souci Canal Park Boat Ramp. There were often unoccupied gazebos at the parks, and they sheltered me through a number of rainstorms. They made packing in the morning much easier because everything was dry.

The next day I continued to follow the Erie Canal along gentle curves of the old bed of the Seneca River until it merged with the Oneida River at Three Rivers Point. I turned right and headed east toward Oneida Lake. Among the stretches of woods along the canal were many ash trees that were leafed only at the bottom, the tops likely killed due to the emerald-green ash borer.

At Lock 23 I ascended for the first time; I had been warned that there is more turbulence in a lock when going up, but it was little different from going down. I camped on the 10′-wide swath of mown grass above the long wall to the east of the lock. I set a space blanket over the tent and napped in its shade till dinner. It was going to be beastly hot again tomorrow afternoon. If I left early I could make it to Oneida Lake before the worst of the heat. The distance I would need to cover and worries about the open water of the lake made for a restless night.

I was wide awake at 4:45, well before the mosquitoes, and got moving: I was on the water in 45 minutes. The only things visible were navigation lights on the bridge 2⁄3 mile down the canal and the faint predawn sky. Bats on whispering wings darted across my bow and dark silhouettes of great blue herons lumbered by overhead while bullfrogs croaked in a distant marsh.

I passed through Brewerton in the pre-dawn darkness and was almost blinded by a bright green fuel-dock sign and an LED American flag. I passed under a 1⁄3-mile-long highway bridge and entered Oneida Lake as swallows streaked the sky and skimmed the waters.

All the Erie Canal locks are 328′ long and 45′ wide. This one, Lock 32, raises and lowers boats 25′, which is on the high end for locks on the canal. The small white building by the gate is a common feature on locks and contains lock controls; I would usually chat with lockmasters there on my way in. The white lines hanging down the sides of the lock are used by boaters to maintain their position in the lock.

The eastern horizon brightened and when the sun rose, blood red, it swallowed the bow in its reflection. A light gust of wind scuffed the water, and the ripples to port sparkled like diamonds. The wind strengthened slightly and made me nervous about my exposure in a small canoe in a large lake. The headwind was not enough to slow me down much, but there were shallow spots that sapped my speed, so I shifted farther from the lake’s north shore.

At 10:30 I landed on a sandy beach at Taft Bay Park for my morning break, not as far along as I would have liked, but after five hours of paddling I was starting to fade. I settled into a gazebo and contemplated just camping there, but it was still early. The forecast for tomorrow had changed, and thunderstorms would start at 3 a.m. and continue into the day. I wouldn’t paddle the lake in that, so I decided to press on.

At 3:20 that afternoon I made a shortcut across the northeastern corner of the lake, expecting to find the canal entrance on its east end. The sun was high, turning the water pewter gray beneath a gray-green shoreline and a hazy blue sky. I followed a bearing with the compass mounted on the thwart. There was no obvious landmark for the canal. I paddled another 20 minutes under the blazing sun, and the horizon was still just a distant smudge. The wind eventually returned, now roughly in my direction and at my speed so I didn’t feel it. Time dragged and I was tired, but eventually I found the entrance to the canal and tied up along a dock just inside.

There was more boat traffic than I had seen anywhere else on this trip. It was not a weekend, so a very boat-centric town. I wandered along the dock into town, Sylvan Beach, looking for something to eat. What I really missed was fresh fruit, but I needed calories and got a chocolate milkshake.

I paddled a meandering 4 1⁄2 woodsy miles to Lock 22, keeping to the shade along the side and wove my way around the stumps and logs littering the shoreside water.

At Lock 32 I had my first experience camping on a lock’s grounds. I tied my canoe between a broken drinking fountain and the dock so wakes would not push it against the dock; using my throw bag line kept me out of the poison ivy along the bank while I set that up. I set up my tent in the mown strip between the Erie Canal Bike Trail and the canal.

The lock was closed when I arrived at 5:30. I was gaining elevation, and the lock, which would raise me 25′, was an imposing concrete structure that towered over me. I wandered around, grateful to have all evening to prepare for the night. I changed into shorts and a T-shirt. It was very warm and the mosquitoes were scarce.

After the 30 miles of paddling that day I was moving lazily, and after I made dinner I pondered ways to set up the canoe, tent, and tarp around the picnic table in preparation for a rainy night ahead. Eventually I gave up and just put the canoe over some of the gear and tossed the rest into the tent vestibule. I turned in, wrote a bit, contemplated not even bothering to inflate the sleeping pad, but eventually did and fell asleep with my gear unsorted—it would provide something to do on a rainy morning.

I roused myself at 5 a.m. Yesterday’s long day made for a good night’s sleep, and I hadn’t been awakened by the rain. By 5:30 I was out of the tent; a ceiling of ashy mottled clouds covered the sky, a pleasant change from yesterday’s sun. Rain fell occasionally so I was quick and packed up in a lull.

After clearing Lock 22, the paddle to Rome was 10 miles of arrow-straight canal, interrupted only by Lock 21 a mile out, and then it was just the canal stretching off for as far as I could see. The canal passed by but not through Rome. I tied up at a canal-side park and almost beat the afternoon rain on my walk to a grocery store.

Just beyond Rome the Erie Canal descended in the last watershed, the Mohawk River valley, and paralleled or merged with the river until the Mohawk’s confluence with the Hudson River, the Erie Canal’s eastern terminus.

Getting out at Benton’s Landing in Little Falls was easier than I expected, but I would not want to do anything much taller than this without something to grab onto; I ended up standing on my seat to get myself up. Finding peaches and blueberries at the farmers market in Little Falls made the effort worthwhile.

The wind was mostly behind me and strong enough that I was glad to be going with it. I finally got to the entrance to Lock 20. The low dock there was close to a wooden picnic table under a tree, which made it easy to set up camp. I spent some time sorting and cleaning gear; some of which might not outlast this trip. My new water shoes already smelled like old neoprene booties and were stained orange from the algae that flourishes in some of the still waters at the canal’s edges.

I spent the long hot following day paddling to the southeast into the blinding glare off the water with sunscreen dripping in my eyes. I hugged the side of the canal, looking for any shade I could find. The canal didn’t go through Utica and Frankfort, so I had little to hold my attention for more than 16 miles until I reached Ilion. The town, situated on the south side of the canal, had a very nice marina, so I stopped and did laundry. I ended the day another 6 miles farther along the canal and camped at Lock 18 by carrying my canoe up to the lawn overlooking the canal.

I chatted with the lone fisherman at the lock and learned that he had seen a bear in the vicinity, so I made sure to bear-bag and hang my food from a tree. A 30-yard-wide strip of mown grass, which served as a spillway to protect the lock from floods, led through the woods down to the Mohawk River, and I wandered to the river at dusk to watch night fall before turning in.

It was a restless night with train horns sounding for much of the night. In the morning, for a change, I had breakfast before I headed out. I was clearly losing weight. The lockmaster arrived around 7, and as he put me through Lock 18, he pointed out the scars on the walls made when tugs slammed into them in the working days of the canal before the opening of the St. Lawrence Seaway in the 1950s made the Erie Canal obsolete for commerce.

At the tail-end of the thunderstorm that blew me back down the canal, I ate a peach while I waited for the lightning to fully subside before continuing. This was the only time I dealt with wind of significant strength the entire trip.

The river was 80 yards wide, half again as wide as the canal, and exposed to the morning sun, so I paddled close to the south bank to get every bit of shade I could, even though the shallows, vegetation, and submerged rocks and logs slowed me. I stopped in Benton’s Landing to wander around in Little Falls. The 3 1⁄2′-tall concrete wall there provided an exercise in balance and scrambling, but I made it out of the canoe and stayed dry. I wandered into a small farmers’ market where I bought a quart of blueberries and a basket of peaches. Fresh fruit at last! As I meandered back to the boat, I ate all of the blueberries and several of the peaches.

A modest current on the Mohawk nudged me downstream, and I arrived at Lock 17 at 11, a little earlier than I expected, and entered the chamber through the mitered gates. At the far end of the lock, on the downstream side, was the canal’s only vertical gate, a solid 150-ton barrier, which lowers like a castle’s portcullis. The water level began to drop and would take almost 10 minutes to lower me 40′, farther than any other lock on the canal. Deep in the chamber, the lock walls squirted jets of water into the falling pool. This was entertaining until I realized the one behind me was steadily filling up the canoe. I moved forward, glad I was the only boat in the lock and free to change position.

As the afternoon progressed, I hurried through a sea of clouds reflected on the mirror-still waters of the canal, headed toward a thunderstorm. Suddenly caught by it, even pushing straight into the wind at a sprint, I was blown backward. I took shelter behind a large tree trunk fallen in the water at the side of the canal. Crowned with tall vegetation, it provided a good wind break. The world turned into a white haze of raindrop splatters as the storm intensified and thunder sounded overhead. I had put my rain jacket on before the storm but didn’t think to first throw on my long underwear top. There was no point in getting it out in the rain—it would be instantly soaked. I warded off hypothermia by vigorously bailing out the inch of water that 10 minutes of rain had poured into the canoe. The intensity of the storm dropped rapidly and, 15 minutes after it began, I ventured on, staying close to the bank in case more lightning occurred.

Rain fell intermittently until 7 p.m. and I decided to stop at Lock 15 in Fort Plain. I picked a spot in the large mown area by a trailer park and busied myself using my paddle to flick wet goose poop out of an area large enough to camp in. During a break in the rain, I set up the tent and tossed the gear in. A walk into town to use the Wi-Fi at the local library kept me occupied until the rain abated and I could return to camp to cook a quick dinner and retire for the night.

The rock on the left is steeper than it looks, and the water is deep, making a sketchy morning loading job near Guard Gate 2. The top of the rock on the right is 2′ above the water—not too hard getting stuff into the canoe in the morning, but not simple getting it unloaded the night before.

I used my canoe cart to portage around the lock before it opened; a good half mile to walk and a bit of a scramble over rocks to get in the water, but it got me moving. Once launched, I cut over to the outflow from the weir next to the lock to get a boost of speed.

I paddled more than 21 miles before stopping on the south side of the canal, across from the town of Amsterdam. The park there was small and not well appointed but seemed quieter and less exposed than the one on the city side of the water.

The next day began slowly as I wandered around Amsterdam, an old mill town that was not nearly as busy as it must have been before 1950. The large warehouses and industrial buildings looked like they had been patched and modified numerous times; several stories of glass panes that must have been broken once and replaced with whatever color was available. The surrounding neighborhood mixed ordinary and elegant houses with some in fine shape and some in need of serious repair.

The valley had opened up and the Mohawk was so wide that I wouldn’t cross from one side to the other without good reason. Highways or train tracks bounded both sides of the river but there were a few houses, and trees blanketed the surrounding hills. The waterway felt less intimate than it had, but the sky above was more expansive and captured my attention. I anxiously watched one squall line move over my port stern quarter for at least an hour, but it eventually moved north of me.

My body had mostly hardened to the rigors of two weeks of paddling, and I was grateful that it was now rare for more than one body part to complain at any one time.

I paddled past Lock 8,  landed at an expansive and well-kept park at Scotia Village, and watched it rain from under a shelter while I filled up water bottles. A busy road ran close by the park, so I decided not to camp there and paddled the 2 miles back to the lock where the alley-wide beach at the lock’s south end and the lawn above it provided one of the easiest take-outs and quietest spots of the entire trip.

The final descent of the canal, Locks 6 through 2, lowered me 169′ in the span of 1 ½ miles, and provided a fitting ending to the canal journey. As I looked back at Lock 2, the final lock, I had only another 10 minutes of easy paddling to the Hudson River and I was done.

The next day’s paddling from the lock turned out to be longer than expected. Several spots where I thought I might camp turned out to be unappealing for one reason or another. Two locations I tried were choked with water caltrop and made shore access impossible. After paddling more than 21 winding river miles, I left the wide Mohawk River for the last stretch of narrow canal and stopped at Guard Gate 2 late in the afternoon. The north side was crowded by a road, so I chose the south side where the only disadvantage was a steep take-out.

On my last day I was up far earlier than necessary, but I was itching to get going. However, I couldn’t go anywhere until the five locks ahead were staffed, so I left the tent fly out to dry and wandered around in the faint dawn light as the sun barely glowed through the overcast sky. I followed a gravel road away from the canal toward Crescent Dam. After following the road for 20 minutes around a field bordered by trees, I reached an overlook at the east end of the dam, a 500-yard arc of two 50′-high walls separated by an island in the middle of the river. Downstream, hidden from view, was another dam and Cohoes Falls. Today, the 1 1⁄2-mile flight of five locks, 6 through 2, would drop me 165′ and circumvent the dam and falls. I watched the white curtain of water spilling over Crescent Dam for a minute and then headed back to get packed up for the day.

I spent some time figuring out the least hazardous way to get gear down the rocky bank and back into the boat. I couldn’t do it safely in the flip-flops I was wearing, so I forced myself to put on my damp, stinky water shoes. The rocks dropped steeply into deep water, so I found a flat place to stand; I twisted at the waist to move the gear and drop it several feet into the boat without moving my feet.

I made a couple of calls on the VHF to the lockmaster working the gates as well as the upper locks 6 and 4. Guard Gate 1 was up so I didn’t need to get that opened. I passed through Lock 6 and, as I was dropping down in Lock 5, got the lockmaster to toss me an apple from the tree that I had seen from the chamber. A bit tart, but it was some of the fresh produce I was starved for.

Lock 2, the last of the flight, deposited me into the final 150 yards of the Erie Canal where it rejoined the Mohawk River. I paddled for 10 minutes until I got to the confluence with the Hudson River.

I’d spent 19 days traversing the full 363-mile length of the Erie Canal. While it has outlived its purpose as an artery for commerce, it now thrives as a beautiful waterway for boats as modest as a solo canoe.

Hugh Rand lives in Maryland where paddling gets him out into nature and provides some much-needed exercise. He especially enjoys paddling up Class-II rapids, documenting natural history on paddle explorations, pulling fishing line out of the water, and bouncing around in ocean waves. He continues his father’s tradition of honoring the water gods by sacrificing expensive items—cellphones, eyeglasses, binoculars, cameras, and more—off boats and docks.

If you have an interesting story to tell about your adventures with a small boat, please email us a brief outline and a few photos.