The Herreshoff/Gardner 17 is a low-slung, sporty rowboat, a combination of two remarkable talents blended over more than 30 years. It started with an L. Francis Herreshoff article in the October 1947 issue of The Rudder. Herreshoff wrote at length on the benefits of recreational rowing and included a sketch of a 17′ rowing boat with a 42″ beam, weighing less than 100 lbs. It would be easily driven but more stable than a rowing shell and far lighter and more easily built than the St. Lawrence skiffs typical of the day.
The drawing was just a concept, with no plans or offsets, but it was something an experienced boatbuilder could work from. Indeed, from that sketch, Allan H. Vaitses of Mattapoisett, Massachusetts, built a Herreshoff 17 for his mile-long commute across the harbor. He summarized 32 months of rowing in “1,200 Miles Under Oars,” published in The Rudder, January 1955. Vaitses described the boat as speedy—twice as fast as typical rowboats—but acknowledged that he had to be careful in a head sea because of the boat’s fine ends.
Another renowned builder, John Gardner of Mystic Seaport Museum, also saw Herreshoff’s article. Entranced by the design, he promptly built a half model that he hung over the entrance to the Seaport’s small boat shop, and when he started getting requests for lines and offsets, he modified Herreshoff’s concept by making the boat a true symmetrical double-ender so that the same molds and stems could be used fore and aft of the middle mold, making it easier for amateur construction. He published his plans, along with an article, in National Fisherman in February 1980. Later, after receiving feedback from several readers and then coming across Vaitses’s 1955 article, he modified the lines again to address concerns about the lack of buoyancy in the ends. He kept Herreshoff’s slippery shape below the waterline, especially the fine ends, but increased the beam at the sheer, and added volume above the waterline for increased buoyancy.

An advertisement led Tony to Paul Jutra, who had recently built a cedar strip-planked Herreshoff/Gardner 17 and was looking to pass along the molds and strongback. While Gardner conceived the boat with a glued-lapstrake hull—similar in appearance to the original Herreshoff 17—the design lends itself to strip-planking, as Paul’s fine example shows.
Key to Herreshoff’s original concept is the light weight. Gardner thought the boat could come in close to 100 lbs if built of 1⁄4″ marine plywood on laminated 3⁄4″ frames at 8″ centers. His finished design was for a lapstrake hull with a 16″-wide (inside) bottom plank, 2 3⁄4″ of rocker, and five rivet-fastened planks per side.
Today at Mystic Seaport you can row John Gardner’s GREEN MACHINE, which he built to his plans in 1981. While building her, Gardner developed complete plans that were published as the opening chapter in Building Classic Small Craft, Vol. 2 (later published as More Building Classic Small Craft and now in Building Classic Small Craft, which contains both volumes 1 and 2) along with a full description of how to build the boat and what materials to use.
Gardner recommended epoxy-gluing the planks along their length, with copper rivets at the frames and copper tacks clenched along the laps between frames. The stems should be built out of three pieces—stem knee, and inner and outer stem—glued and screwed. While oak could be used, Gardner thought lighter woods made sense. The bottom should be of 3⁄4″ northern white pine or similar wood and, as it is 16″ wide, he suggested epoxying narrower boards together to get the width needed. Floor cleats were spaced between the frames. The seat risers and doublers stiffen the whole assembly and run virtually the length of the boat. Spruce was suggested for the thwarts—for stiffness and light weight—while the outwales could be spruce, mahogany, or fir.
Gardner originally drew fore and after decks to keep the boat dry and to stiffen the ends but eliminated them when he built GREEN MACHINE because of time constraints. Instead, he laminated thin breasthooks, finding them stiff enough. He also found the undecked boat dry under “reasonable conditions of use.”

This example of John Gardner’s Herreshoff/Gardner 17 was built by Myron Young of Lauren, New York, and featured on the back cover of Gardner’s book, More Building Classic Small Craft. It replaced Gardner’s original GREEN MACHINE, and can still be rowed by visitors to Mystic Seaport Museum.
Since the boat is symmetrical forward and aft, it can be rowed in either direction. That allows some flexibility in thwart and oarlock locations to adjust for solo rowing, solo rowing with a passenger, or two-person rowing. Gardner’s plans show an interesting hinged-thwart arrangement to vary the width of the two thwarts to accommodate taller and shorter rowers. The frames and bottom cleats provide a range of foot-brace points.
Building the Herreshoff/Gardner 17
I came across the Herreshoff 17 design when looking for a rowboat for my dotage. I wanted a boat for staying fit and simply messing about on the water. I considered several and was inclined toward Swampscott dories and similar seaworthy boats. Most, though, would be too heavy to lug around, launch, and haul at my age, so I settled on the Herreshoff.
I considered building one and even bought the plans for Jim Michalak’s LFH17—a stitch-and-glue variation that I thought I could pull off. But, not having a workspace, I started searching online ads for the Herreshoff 17, hoping to find one to purchase. That’s when I saw an ad for “Molds and strongback for Herreshoff rowboat. Text this number.”
I did. Lo and behold, Paul Jutra had built a cedar strip-planked Herreshoff 17, had the tooling cluttering his garage, and lived a couple of miles down the road. We tossed everything into my car, and I stored the bits in my shed. Then I stopped to consider what I had gotten myself into. In the ’70s I had thrown together a 28′ single-chine plywood boat out of AC plywood and 2×4s. I sailed her from Michigan to England, and then to Newport, Rhode Island. But I’m no craftsman (she was courteously described in the British press as being “rough but sturdy”). Nor did I have a place in which to build a boat. However, a friend had recently purchased a home that included a separate wood shop and greenhouse, and thus the Greenhouse Boatyard was born.

Tony had little boatbuilding experience and nowhere to build his boat at home. When a friend invited him to make use of an old woodshop and greenhouse, he readily accepted—they called the space the Greenhouse Boatyard. Tony would be using his boat on open water, so decided to include flotation in the ends by installing bulkheads 3′ in from the stems and building fore and after decks.
There are examples of the Herreshoff/Gardner 17 scattered around the world. It seems that even with the emphasis on light construction, they hold up well. Christopher Jones of Kansas City, Missouri, finished his in 2003: KATHLEEN SCOTT was built true to the plans, and weighs about 140 lbs. A 1979 build named SUGAR BABY weighs in around 150 lbs and is still in use near Sydney, Australia, now owned by transpacific rower Tom Robinson. Alex Comb of Stewart River Boatworks builds 17s to order. He uses steam-bent frames and says his boats weigh about 125 lbs. Each is customized to the buyer’s requirements—some are very close to the Gardner GREEN MACHINE, while others have been built with flotation tanks and other customizations.
While planning my build, I studied up on what other builders had done. I wanted the boat to be on the lighter side, initially targeting the 100-lb weight that both Herreshoff and Gardner mentioned. I read Iain Oughtred’s Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual and learned a lot from How to Build Glued-Lapstrake Wooden Boats by John Brooks and Ruth Ann Hill. I began to think that Gardner’s glued-lapstrake construction with numerous ribs might be a bit of a belt-and-braces technique and decided to build-out the hull before deciding on interior reinforcements.
I followed Gardner’s instructions for the stems, bottom, and plywood planking. I put two coats of epoxy on the plank interior faces before installation to reduce sanding later. Gardner suggested taping the garboard-to-bottom joints with fiberglass tape, but I fiberglassed both the garboards and bottom inside and out. That added some weight, but provided abrasion resistance outside and would prevent water from getting between the solid-wood bottom and the plywood garboard.
Launching the Herreshoff/Gardner 17
When flipped upright the hull was still a bit flexible, but once the outwales were in place she became very stiff. Since I wanted to take the boat out into Narragansett Bay, near my home in Rhode Island, I opted for proper flotation tanks in the ends, setting 4mm-plywood bulkheads 3′ in from the stems to provide plenty of buoyancy.

Tony built his Herreshoff/Gardner 17 of plywood planking over Alaska yellow cedar frames and mahogany stems. The gunwales and thwarts are also cedar. While Tony painted the hull both inside and out, he varnished all the solid wood and the decks to give contrast and define the curves. He uses a lengthened Optimist dolly for hauling and launching.
Even though the outwales alone provided sufficient stiffness at the sheer, I also installed scuppered inwales because I like how they look. I finished off the interior with three laminated frames and a seat riser. I set up two rowing stations, one for solo rowing, and one for double rowing or solo rowing with a passenger. For oars I found a pair of 1988 Collars 7′ 6″ spoons, which is the length Gardner recommends, and for oarlocks I chose Gacos. When our mooring field filled up in the summer, I added a wide-angle front-view mirror mounted above the after buoyancy tank.
A lengthened Optimist dinghy dolly works well for launching and hauling. A light boat like this—mine ended up at about 115 lbs—is easily trailerable, but cartopping might be difficult.
With the 16″-wide bottom, and a 45″ beam to the outside of the planking, the design is rounded amidships. With a heavier rower, say 200 lbs, she might displace around 335 lbs, which gives a 4″ draft, a waterline length of 16′ 6″, and a waterline beam of about 30″. When I step into the boat, it feels pretty tippy, but the flare of the hull keeps the water out and mine has never shipped water even with some pretty clumsy entrances and exits. At 4″ draft, the boat has about 120 lbs per inch immersion. If you’re lighter, the boat will have a narrower waterline beam, and will be more tender.
With her flat bottom and her stems just kissing the water, the Herreshoff/Gardner can be a bit squirrely; some owners have added a small skeg aft, but I set my rowing station slightly aft, so the after stem acts like a skeg. Christopher Jones’s solution is to place a 10- to 15-lb weight in the stern. Herreshoff’s original sketch clearly shows a shallow keel running the length of the boat. I don’t know why Gardner did not include that in his design.
I have not had my boat out in big seas, but the design is responsive and has plenty of buoyancy. It may rock a bit with the narrow waterline beam, but the ’midship flare and the fullness above the water at the stems keeps the water out. Rowers have reported being comfortable on longer trips. Gardner quotes Vaitses saying he could do 4 to 5 knots all day, and was timed at over 6 knots a number of times. The boat is certainly easily driven and, for a fixed-seat machine, offers a decent rate of speed. I can maintain 3 1⁄2 to 4 knots without breaking a sweat, and more experienced rowers say they can hold 6 knots for decent periods. The low freeboard means wind is not much of a factor.
John Murray, who makes the Graco oarlocks, has also built about 60 Swift dories, a fiberglass clone of the Herreshoff/Gardner. He thinks the boat really comes alive in a chop. For me, the biggest challenge is powerboat wakes. I handle them by either rowing into them or stopping to let them pass.
Building a kit boat would have taken far less time, but I am happy with how this project came out. The tooling I was given by Paul Jutra was fair, and right on the money with Gardner’s offsets. The lapstrake construction is pretty and strong. I learned a huge amount about both boatbuilding and woodworking. In contrast to my “rough but sturdy” first boat, my Herreshoff/Gardner 17 draws approving looks wherever she goes.
The molds and strongback have been passed along to the next builder, a recent IYRS graduate.
Tony Lush fell prey to Joshua Slocum while in college and got in 40,000 solo miles before settling down in Rhode Island. He and his wife, Nancy, still sail and maintain a small fleet of boats to enjoy on Narragansett Bay—the Herreshoff/Gardner 17 among them.
Herreshoff/Gardner 17 Particulars
LOA: 17′ 1″
Beam, amidships to inside planking: 3′ 8 1⁄2″
Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats readers would enjoy? Please email us your suggestions.
Hi,
Back in the late 90s, I had my own shop, and built seven of these so-called Herreshoff/Gardner pulling boats. One of them was for the singer, Jimmy Buffett. I shipped it from my shop in the Bay Area to Sag Harbor, Long Island. I had to build a box that was 18 feet long by 4 feet wide by 2 feet high. That in itself was a project.
Jimmy passed away a year and a half ago. I was recently contacted by the man dealing with his estate, and was pleased to know that Jimmy used the boat quite a bit. (Sorry, I couldn’t figure out how to add a photo of the boat.)
Hi Steve, I’d be happy to help you upload a photo if you’d like to do that. Just let me know.
“the Herreshoff/Gardner can be a bit squirrely”
I wonder if that may be due to the amount of rocker (2 3/4 inches) used. I have built several similar boats (my own design) with 1 to 1.5 inches of rocker which track well but, of course, may turn less readily. It depends on what you are seeking.
Thank you very much for your article. I have found over the years that the sides of the boat are only needed to keep the water out and can be made in your case, I suspect, with 1/8″ ply. I have made one boat out of carbon fiber and got the weight down to 50 lbs. The only advantage is that it is easier to cartop. Now use one less layer of fibreglass on the sides and though it might feel vulnerable it is quite adequate. A friend in Tasmania makes his from tortured ply.
Fiberglass with wooden gunwales, backrests, and foot stretcher is 66lbs. This means I only have to lift 33lbs onto the roofrack then go to the other end lift and push it on.
I had one of these for about 20 years. Built by Steve Najjar in Redwood City, CA and named Sophisticated Lady. Weighed about 95 pounds. Had a trolley type sliding seat and fixed seat. Went well with either. I mounted a pair of folding outrigger oarlocks I had lying around and used 8′ Shaw and Tenney spoons. It went beautifully in all but crazy weather. I launched off the shore into Lake Ontario. When I hit 85 launching and retrieving got too difficult and I regretfully sold her. Bought an Annapolis Wherry for the weight. Now building an Oughtred Macgregor kit because even lighter.
Some comments as John worked up and built The GREEN MACHINE during my watch at Mystic. The project was in the winter of 1980, with the completion that summer. The boat in the photo is not the original which has been retired; it is one built carefully by the late Myron Young and donated for use.
There was material experimentation. The boat is built using high grade exterior waterproof construction plywood, not marine plywood, and over the years there has been some checking. Most people don’t realize this as John used a piece of cedar for the sheerstrake so you don’t see the ply end grain. It was built before glued lap became a thing and might be able to be made a bit lighter as the fastenings were kind of belt and braces, glued laps and clench nails. There was no real effort made to make it as light as possible.
The GREEN MACHINE was set up to row in one direction as a single, the other as a double so the seat for single rowing could be folded to get it out of the way as you couldn’t get your feet under it when rowing double or carrying a passenger. The third seat for single rowing was put amidships and you pulled from the bow oarlocks.
Boats with these skeg-like stems are extremely sensitive to trim, griping badly if even lightly bow down. Many builders decide the boat is going to be rowed only in one direction and relive the bow stem, and trim the boat accordingly as she is a little bow high when rowed as a single from the stern seat or needs weight in the stern rowed as a single from the bow seat. Some shift the aft seat forward a frame which then means that some stern weight is needed if rowed as a double. Some have added a shallow skeg in the stern.
The boat’s development is interwoven with the Adirondack Guideboat, where one of the problems to solve was how to make artificial natural crook frames. John solved this with glued laminations. His long article details this but because of the double ended shape there were only three shapes needed from which several pairs of frames could be resawn.
Borrowed also from western Adirondack guideboats was the slight rake in the stems, making planking easier than using a plumb stem and the dramatic flare in the topsides. Both are of considerable help in keeping water out of the boat when pulling into a head sea.
John was a bit conservative in oar lengths. The recommended 7’6″ oars work in both rowing positions but the forward position with 48″ between locks can take 8′ oars. Andy Steever in his “Oars for Pleasure Rowing” (available on the Internet Archive) details the oars designed for the boat. They have teflon leathers and are squared inboard of the locks. They have been counterweighted with lead strips, to balance with the weight of your hand. The longer ones took three times the amount of lead.
I became the tester for the boat, taking it out into Fisher Island Sound where there were predictable whitecaps over a bar out from Ram Island. I got her surfing pretty good but the flare kept the bow up surfing. That summer I took her to the Blackburn and won my class. That set off a building spree of race optimized boats.
Thanks so much for the clarifications and corrections, Ben. Much appreciated.
One of our local TSCA members rows an LFH 17, his has the decking at each end making for a very dry boat. This is an old photo but he still has it and still brings it to the club rows: https://flic.kr/p/2qCiHdV
Steve Chambers was another club member, he took Jim Michalak’s plans for this design and converted to skin-on-frame. Steve wrote up the project in the old Duckworks magazine. He built two of the SOF boats, and for a few years I owned the first of them. It was light enough to car top, and easy to roll around on a simple cart consisting of a 2×6 and two bike wheels: https://flic.kr/p/k7V2DT
Eventually I sold mine on, last I saw Steve he still had the second one. This photo is Steve on the Oakland Estuary rowing #2: https://flic.kr/p/qQNgEY
Athelas has similar lines forward and a small transom aft. Entrance and exit below the waterline are the same, but the addition of a very small skeg takes the squirrliness out.
She has two thwarts for two rowers but by flipping the aft thwart end and a little forward a single rower keeps her balanced.
The interior is less cluttered than the Gardner version with fewer frames and can accommodate a sliding seat option.